School me in the ways of intaking fuel and air...

Quote
Robert Culbertson

If you are handy with a torch you can try brazing the flange to the header. I have brazed a few cast manifolds up and they are still working fine.

My kingdom for a set of torches right now...

So some angle sang on high, and I just mig-ed it up with the flux core I currently have... ah well. Yes, I have a traced copy of it too!

I really beleved out the insided edge of the flange, then ran the weld bead starting from the pipe out to the flange slowly, I figure I essentially flared the end of the pipe and the flange can hold the flare in place Then to be on the safe side, so I can see the cracks happen... I welded the outside too, slow and steady.




It will probably crack when I fire it up.

Motor is now in the car, still some more fidgitying to do before I can start it, maybe tomorrow, maybe next week, will se how tomorrow goes.



Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 09/29/2013 01:23AM by Mad Matt F.

I still say its pink.

---

John Vanlandingham
Sleezattle, WA, USA

Vive le Prole-le-ralliat

www.rallyrace.net/jvab
CALL +1 206 431-9696
Remember! Pacific Standard Time
is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time.

So...

Um,

Really really smokey start up. Runs well so far, tons of oil pressure, settled into 45-50 psi on my cheapo gauge; but a lot of smoke in exhaust, like ALOT. Oil smoke.

Took a bit of work to get it up and running, and I turned it over quite a bit with no plugs in to build oil pressure. Pretty much new everything, including valve seals (old pistons).

Right now with about 5 minutes or less total run time, at high idle it's not bad for the first 30 secs, and then as the exhaust warms it gets bad (there is oil in the exhaust). I know, I know I need to let it run for 20 min, but the smoke was so bad I thought some neighbour would come out screaming.

Maybe the oil in the exhaust is from the first start up, and now it just needs to burn off, but man it's smoke show.

Keep trying or buy a volvo?

Almost postive I figured it out overnight...

Will report back later. Should be nothing major.

Did you use new valve guide seals? Those are good to have, though you my not need them on the exhaust depending on how the head was designed.
Are you using one of those sweet exhaust drawn crankcase vacuums? Those smoke, and then shoot flames! (apparently)

yep, new valve guides seals, but I found the problem.

in my infinite wisdom, I used the new intake manifold gasket that came with the head gasket and seal kit. it was a pretty thin paper type. the intake also seals two oil return passages that are right beside the middle cylinder runner, and s coolant passage.


there was a slight coolant leak when I filled the coolant, I torqued the intake a bit more and thought nothing further. Today I pulled the intake off and sure enough it has been drawing oil into the runner.

my old home made cork gasket should fix it.

edited for mobile typos



Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 10/15/2013 04:18PM by Mad Matt F.

Quote
Mad Matt F
yep, new valve guides seals, but I found the problem.

in my infinite wisdom, I used the new intake manifold gasket that came with the head gasket and seal kit. it was a pretty thin paper type. the intake also seals two oil return passages that are right beside the middle cylinder runner, and s coolant passage.


there was a slight coolant leak when I filled the coolant, I torqued the intake a bit more and thought nothing further. Today I pulled the intake off and sure enough it has been drawing oil into the runner.

my old home made cork gasket should fix it.

edited for mobile typos

Permatex Ultra-Grey is the answer:

---

John Vanlandingham
Sleezattle, WA, USA

Vive le Prole-le-ralliat

www.rallyrace.net/jvab
CALL +1 206 431-9696
Remember! Pacific Standard Time
is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time.

Quote
john vanlandingham

Permatex Ultra-Grey is the answer:

Nope nope nope. It's all about the

I was told that these were the shit:

---

Andrew Steere
Lyndeborough, NH
KB1PJY

Horses for courses.
Andrew you are being a naughty boy, you know full well that my old beloved Yama-Bond---and its cousins Suzi-bond, Honda bond, Kawa-bond and Ultra-Grey are all the same thing, all "Made under licence from Drei-Bond GhmB" http://www.dreibond.de/kld.htm

And it is the hot shit for field repairs---and stuff that MUST NOT LEAK, but that you don't want to be forced to use violence to clean the surfaces....

Copper-tooth-paste of bath-room caulking, meh... nice color but is not the same thing

There is an idiot I know whose eyes become wide with the little pin points of the possesed when he insists "the only thing is Toyota Black PN xxxxxxx ONLY THING"---like the zombie he is

Read at the bottom of the super expensive $37/ a 3 oz tube "Mide under licence from Tri-Bond " the Japanese branch.

Same shit stupid price.

---

John Vanlandingham
Sleezattle, WA, USA

Vive le Prole-le-ralliat

www.rallyrace.net/jvab
CALL +1 206 431-9696
Remember! Pacific Standard Time
is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time.

Ultra copper is the shit for exhaust manifolds and the like. You can have bolts loosen up and be able to re-tighten several times before burning a gasket.

Ultra grey or any of the bonds ('ceptin James) are awesome for anything else. We've been using the Ultra black out of a caulking gun for several years with no issues, even re-using the rubber pan gasket when doing timing chains on occasion.

Just don't use the old blue silicon, we'll boot you out of tech for being silly.

Right Stuff is the best. Bonds much stronger than the other shitty Permatex offerings. Its real tough and all the race shops 'round here seem to use it.

While everyone else is having a go.
Loctite master gasket 515 or 518 are the tubes I turn to when planing some fun bedroom time.

Quote
Cosworth
Right Stuff is the best. Bonds much stronger than the other shitty Permatex offerings. Its real tough and all the race shops 'round here seem to use it.

They say you can't use it for a head gasket but they's lyin'.

---

Pete Remner
Cleveland, Ohio

1984 RX-7 (rallycross thing)
1978
Silence is golden, but duct tape is silver.

Houston, we have torque!!!

I drove the Justy for the first time since the motor build today... It is still very rough, and not tuned (having the wideband ROCKS). Running rich in the 10:1 area at idle, even a bit richer part throttle...

However...

It laid 20 feet of rubber in 2nd gear!!!! I went up the street, just crusing along, put my foot down and it spun from 20km/h. THE JUSTY, yes, really...

Quote
john vanlandingham
That thing is going to be so fawkin rip snorting as n.a. and we've talked about working on the progressiveness of the throttle so it doesn't just tear the whole powerplant out of the shit Subie tin...
leaving the car hovering in the air like some cartoon before it clangs on the ground..

Put it in 4wd, and it just pulled straight and nice.

Carbs are really sticking under vacuum though. It wants to hold up around 1/3-1/5 throttle when running. Not running they drop all the way down. Plastic slides, stock return spring. I don't think they should need any type of lube, so I will work to get that sorted then start jetting this thing!

Oooh baby.