Oriental Handbrake

Hey! So last night I got some mail, Its my Chinese, ebay, hydraulic handbrake! I haven't had time to run down to a fittings shop to check yet but I thought I'd ask around here. Has anyone purchased one of these or would be able from eyeing it out, figure out what fittings this needs? my first inclination is that the inlet is 7/16 and the outlet is 3/8 but I'm not sure on the fitting type. Or would it be metric??

The inlet has what looks like an inverted flare, but would a banjo bolt fit around that as well? the outlet has the opposite, maybe an AN fitting??? Anyone have any experience with this?

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that looks like the rix engineering knock off. what do you think of it? bendy crap or decent enough? the ksports seem to fall apart just wondering if the handle is partial or total crap, don't care about the MC.

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-KTurner
Stomp down on the exhilarator and hold on to the wheel.

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KTurner
that looks like the rix engineering knock off. what do you think of it? bendy crap or decent enough? the ksports seem to fall apart just wondering if the handle is partial or total crap, don't care about the MC.

The handle is pretty solid feeling, I can see what you mean though, where it pivots could have been better, I can see it getting noodlie after a while...maybe... If anything like that happens It wont be to hard to work out something better for the bracket (maybe should have done that to start with??)

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I'm always posting on Instagram...follow me! PeteNaz Instagram

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after looking up RIX engineering handbrakes...I think the MC is a Girling knockoff!! getting closer! anyone know anything about Girling?

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I'm always posting on Instagram...follow me! PeteNaz Instagram

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I have the same hand brake i used a 3/8 fitting for the front and the rear fitting is a odd ball thread. What I found that worked was a soft brake hose off a 70's oldsmobile. Hope that helps.

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PeteNaz
after looking up RIX engineering handbrakes...I think the MC is a Girling knockoff!! getting closer! anyone know anything about Girling?

Yeah. Used them for decades. Pay attention to which is the inlet and which is the outlet, it ain't whatcha think and most guys plumb them backwards.
And if it IS a direct Girling copy, the smaller hole is 3/8 x 24 aka -3, the bigger is -4.
I usually shove a male-male union in and seal on the flat so I have a -3 male stickin out and use an ordinary -3 tube nut end. 69 cents. No advantage to a banjo, only disadvantages (the line itself becomes a lever and inevitably banjos will work loose and you have a leak but worse is you get air in and handbrakes are often a bitch to bleed perfectly..And you end up with a mushy footbrake.)

I use the male-male union on anything with metric threads--like calipers, and just leave them in permanently. I use -3 bulkhead fitting at the ends of the hardlines---this way the hose is super easy as its a felmale swivel on each end--the hose isn't "handed" (ya know like most OEM there's one thread on one end and the other end is sumpin else and they're unique. Screw that. One simple non handed hose. I make my own hoses with "Reusable" ends. That way a replacement hose is $5. Spend a tad more first time, all future costs vastly less.

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John Vanlandingham
Sleezattle, WA, USA

Vive le Prole-le-ralliat

www.rallyrace.net/jvab
CALL +1 206 431-9696
Remember! Pacific Standard Time
is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time.

Thanks John! I am going to adopt that logic to my brake system, I had similar thoughts about it.

By saying you use the 3/8 x 24 for the MC outlet (correct me on the orientation if I'm wrong, but the angled bit??) do you use an actual -3AN male/male to go into that port? and for the inlet i'd stick a -4AN to -3AN reducer? Or should I use an inverted flair 7/16 x 20 to -3AN (I.F. going into the port because of that cone protruding from the bottom, second picture above)

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I'm always posting on Instagram...follow me! PeteNaz Instagram

My Build

Quote
PeteNaz
Thanks John! I am going to adopt that logic to my brake system, I had similar thoughts about it.

By saying you use the 3/8 x 24 for the MC outlet (correct me on the orientation if I'm wrong, but the angled bit??) do you use an actual -3AN male/male to go into that port? and for the inlet i'd stick a -4AN to -3AN reducer? Or should I use an inverted flair 7/16 x 20 to -3AN (I.F. going into the port because of that cone protruding from the bottom, second picture above)

The preferred thang is a "large hex" -3 x -3 An OR SAE, cause were not using the top, we're using the copper or aluminum washer to seal on the flat. On the -4 end just a plain -4 x -3 reducer..and a washer.

Note on the front I just re-flare and try not to forget to slide the new tube nut on before flaring.. That happens too frequently (old age, brain damage from bashing head on the ground for 20 years, fixating on the flare..The rear circuit usually gets new routing all the way back to the calipers..
I try to keep it easy to live with, while the OEM concern is ease of assembly on the production line..

Tell me what calipers on the rear you're planning on. Where the inlet?
If you're using "slidey-pin" calipers you really want a section of hose so you can lift the caliper part off the frame. If using saddle type calipers (like my default favorite Volvo 240 with its near ideal 38mm pistons and good size pad---which just happens to be same as Portch 911 from from the 60s to about 74--which means lots of pad choices---) you can get away with one hose from bulkhead to the beam and hard line the rest of the way. The 240 calipers are extra nice in that the inlet is facing forward, and that means the hardline can run the whole way on top of the beam or arms and not swoop out to a entry on the end of the piston part of the caliper---which is bound to die. Ask me how I know.

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John Vanlandingham
Sleezattle, WA, USA

Vive le Prole-le-ralliat

www.rallyrace.net/jvab
CALL +1 206 431-9696
Remember! Pacific Standard Time
is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time.

I use Banjo bolts on mine cause they cost more money and I don't bump my elbow on them. I just quadrulple the tightening torque and use some locktite and then also glob some JB weld on the top of them to keep them from coming loose. I figure I'll just throw away the whole thing and buy a new master and new banjos if the master ever fails.

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Grant Hughes

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NoCoast
I use Banjo bolts on mine cause they cost more money and I don't bump my elbow on them. I just quadrulple the tightening torque and use some locktite and then also glob some JB weld on the top of them to keep them from coming loose. I figure I'll just throw away the whole thing and buy a new master and new banjos if the master ever fails.

TiG the fawking things on, it's the only safe way.
THINK OF THE FAWKIN CHILDREN!!!!!!!!!!


Use some of that Heat Fence like we used on the strut---which nobody ahs sent anything for after all-that-slaving-away-to-save-you-money.

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John Vanlandingham
Sleezattle, WA, USA

Vive le Prole-le-ralliat

www.rallyrace.net/jvab
CALL +1 206 431-9696
Remember! Pacific Standard Time
is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time.

I have one of these in my car, two tips for you.

Add a stop on the lever(can't quite see if it has on already) so when you use the brake pedal the handbrake master cylinder piston isn't trying to push the little dinky circlip out the front of the unit, look under the rubber boot where the rod goes in if you don't know what I mean.
I had that happen whilst on the brake dyno at my local rego authority... Roll on to the front axle, hold brakes on hard till they say stop, half way through the pedal sinks to the floor with a clunk, passed front axle.
roll on the the rear axle and do the same, but this time with me trying to hold the handbrake m/c back together without the inspectors noticing.... passed rear axle.
They don't care how much braking you have just that it's the same left to right!
Drove out of the testing station and parked it round the corner using the cable handbrake.

Tip 2, my ebay M/C was stuffed straight out of the box, it was plumbed correctly but when you applied the handbrake it bleed back through the inlet into the regular m/c.

Also I changed from the 3/4" bore that it came with to a 5/8" bore which gave me the feel I wanted to the lever. Luckily I'd driven another car with exactly the same brake setup and knew that his worked good so I copied the piston size.

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buerckner
I have one of these in my car, two tips for you.

Add a stop on the lever(can't quite see if it has on already) so when you use the brake pedal the handbrake master cylinder piston isn't trying to push the little dinky circlip out the front of the unit, look under the rubber boot where the rod goes in if you don't know what I mean.
I had that happen whilst on the brake dyno at my local rego authority... Roll on to the front axle, hold brakes on hard till they say stop, half way through the pedal sinks to the floor with a clunk, passed front axle.
roll on the the rear axle and do the same, but this time with me trying to hold the handbrake m/c back together without the inspectors noticing.... passed rear axle.
They don't care how much braking you have just that it's the same left to right!
Drove out of the testing station and parked it round the corner using the cable handbrake.

Tip 2, my ebay M/C was stuffed straight out of the box, it was plumbed correctly but when you applied the handbrake it bleed back through the inlet into the regular m/c.

Also I changed from the 3/4" bore that it came with to a 5/8" bore which gave me the feel I wanted to the lever. Luckily I'd driven another car with exactly the same brake setup and knew that his worked good so I copied the piston size.

G'day Fred, haven't seen a car yet that wants other than 5/8" as the handbrake master.
Reading tween the lines I reckon you're somewhere over on the other side of the world where everything is backwards and upside down.
Blazin hot for Christmas is it?

So you're State authorities don't sweat the hydro handbrake at all or so you have to have some cables too?

Where you at? And just outta curiosity, what car?
Maybe grab a few frosties and say hi, tell us about your local scene, we wanna know.
Post some piccies of some sideways action too..

Oh yeah fill in your real name and real location, keeps most people more friendly, and its about the only rule here and rids of of the need for annoying moderators --
You can have your name in the sidebar thing or in the signature, duddnt matter, long as its somewhere.

You gonna follow on the heels of the guy from down there Orders and whassis name and come up here and kick some Blue Subies senseless with a nice ol RWD car?

EDIT: Hang on you're that Brückner from the late lamented Turbopricks! We're "friends" over there.
Well welcome to the asylum....

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John Vanlandingham
Sleezattle, WA, USA

Vive le Prole-le-ralliat

www.rallyrace.net/jvab
CALL +1 206 431-9696
Remember! Pacific Standard Time
is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 12/29/2012 08:48PM by john vanlandingham.

Quote
john vanlandingham
Where you at? And just outta curiosity, what car?
Maybe grab a few frosties and say hi, tell us about your local scene, we wanna know.
Post some piccies of some sideways action too..

You gonna follow on the heels of the guy from down there Orders and whassis name and come up here and kick some Blue Subies senseless with a nice ol RWD car?

Well that's all the excuse I need to eat some X-max leftovers and drink a beer or two in the aircon rather than finish tiling the front steps!

See my intro post in rumours lies etc



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 12/29/2012 10:10PM by buerckner.

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john vanlandingham

Quote
PeteNaz
Thanks John! I am going to adopt that logic to my brake system, I had similar thoughts about it.

By saying you use the 3/8 x 24 for the MC outlet (correct me on the orientation if I'm wrong, but the angled bit??) do you use an actual -3AN male/male to go into that port? and for the inlet i'd stick a -4AN to -3AN reducer? Or should I use an inverted flair 7/16 x 20 to -3AN (I.F. going into the port because of that cone protruding from the bottom, second picture above)

The preferred thang is a "large hex" -3 x -3 An OR SAE, cause were not using the top, we're using the copper or aluminum washer to seal on the flat. On the -4 end just a plain -4 x -3 reducer..and a washer.

Note on the front I just re-flare and try not to forget to slide the new tube nut on before flaring.. That happens too frequently (old age, brain damage from bashing head on the ground for 20 years, fixating on the flare..The rear circuit usually gets new routing all the way back to the calipers..
I try to keep it easy to live with, while the OEM concern is ease of assembly on the production line..

Tell me what calipers on the rear you're planning on. Where the inlet?
If you're using "slidey-pin" calipers you really want a section of hose so you can lift the caliper part off the frame. If using saddle type calipers (like my default favorite Volvo 240 with its near ideal 38mm pistons and good size pad---which just happens to be same as Portch 911 from from the 60s to about 74--which means lots of pad choices---) you can get away with one hose from bulkhead to the beam and hard line the rest of the way. The 240 calipers are extra nice in that the inlet is facing forward, and that means the hardline can run the whole way on top of the beam or arms and not swoop out to a entry on the end of the piston part of the caliper---which is bound to die. Ask me how I know.

Is there a specific retailer you order the bighex 4an to 3an adapter from? Not finding what I think I need at Pegasus and summit...

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Brap Brap.