Milestone!

The car rolled around for the first time in over 6 months. Rear brake kit is on a bitchin', except I somehow managed to lose 3 of the 4 bolts that attach the caliper to the carrier. Oh well, I am not going to run the brake lines until after I finish painting the interior. RS500 body kit will be here next week too.
Immediate list:
Paint interior
Run brake lines and install dual master setup
Install Sooper bitching JVAB front brake kit
Run fuel lines
Sand bondo and cut lexan windows for hatch and proper rear side windows
Rebuild halfshafts and install
Weld exhaust
Drive

Of course, leaving Saturday for Florida, back for two weeks, statisical conference in Salt Lake, wedding in Wyoming, hill climb in Grand Junction, moving to a new house, and starting school again means the car won't be moving along too quickly. Should be able to make Cog as planned if I can figure out a gearbox solution since mine has a trashed bearing. Probably grab Aaron's T9 from up in the mountains. I'll go take a few pics right now.

---

Grant Hughes

Pics

---

Grant Hughes

It's looking good Grant! Keep at er

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Andrew M
Onterrible
30ish

Nice lookin' cage, from what I can see.

Say, you know that someone chopped out your rear side window frames?

---

Self-righteous douche canoe

Hey John, what do you recommend for hardware for attaching the brake hat to the disc? Should those bolts be safety wire tied together?

Anyone have a good source for hardware for brake caliper bolts?
7/16-20 for the rear, M12 in the front, though I may see if they can be tapped for 7/16-20 instead so all four calipers are attached with the same bolts. Am trying to find ones that are predrilled for safety wire.

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Grant Hughes



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 07/05/2007 10:57AM by NoCoast.

NoCoast Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Hey John, what do you recommend for hardware for
> attaching the brake hat to the disc? Should those
> bolts be safety wire tied together?

AAAAwww shit Grant, I thought I sent you the M8 x 25 allen and the all metal locking nuts
My thought is we try the all metal lock nuts and see how that works.
May have to check them occasionally, and I have had spotty luck with lockwiring stuff, so that means we should CHECK things.
>
> Anyone have a good source for hardware for brake
> caliper bolts?
> 7/16-20 for the rear, M12 in the front, though I
> may see if they can be tapped for 7/16-20 instead
> so all four calipers are attached with the same
> bolts.

Dude the front Xratty holes ready for tapping out to M12 if I recall correctly, and the Sapphire 2wd knuckles you're supposed to be using ARE M12 already.

What knuckles do you have?

Maybe you send the old discs back and I send some knuckles and bolts and nuts.
And Grant---desires to use "same hardaware " front and rear is kinda pointless as it's a whim.
There's no real reason for the calipersd to be held on except you had a "thought" thay you'd like it.


Worry MORE about getting proper bolts with some "grip length"---the straight shank before the threads begin, and getting some spares, trather than some self imposed problems of symmetry.

As to where: Wrecking yards, look at Volvo front and rear, maybe Saab rear (Saab front are massive M14), maybe VW Bus----where you should be swiping the M14 nuts tro go with the M14 studsa you should be using----you are using M14 studs aren't you?




Am trying to find ones that are predrilled
> for safety wire.

Rotsa ruck Roundeye.
>
> Grant Hughes
> www.nocoastmotorsports.net
> Denver, CO
>
>
>
> Edited 1 times. Last edit at Jul 5, 2007 by
> NoCoast.

---

John Vanlandingham
Sleezattle, WA, USA

Vive le Prole-le-ralliat

www.rallyrace.net/jvab
CALL +1 206 431-9696
Remember! Pacific Standard Time
is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time.

john vanlandingham Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> AAAAwww shit Grant, I thought I sent you the M8 x
> 25 allen and the all metal locking nuts
> My thought is we try the all metal lock nuts and
> see how that works.
> May have to check them occasionally, and I have
> had spotty luck with lockwiring stuff, so that
> means we should CHECK things.
>
> Dude the front Xratty holes ready for tapping out
> to M12 if I recall correctly, and the Sapphire 2wd
> knuckles you're supposed to be using ARE M12
> already.
>
> What knuckles do you have?

I am using the stock XR knuckles. No money to do otherwise and my tap kit has M12 and 7/16-20 so my thought was, since I have to use the 7/16-20 for the rear caliper and I have to tap the fronts for M12 anyhow, why not see if the hole is small enough for the 7/16-20.


> Maybe you send the old discs back and I send some
> knuckles and bolts and nuts.

I have only ever gotten one set of discs from you, and those were the ones you just sent recently.

> you are using M14 studs aren't you?

Nope. ARP long studs M12 length. Two things stopping me from M14 are getting the actual studs and machining the hubs to take them. But I have a spare set of four that will be upgraded to M14 stuff in the future. For right now I'm sticking with M12 studs.

Why allen bolts and not hex head?

---

Grant Hughes

NoCoast Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------

>
> I am using the stock XR knuckles. No money to do
> otherwise and my tap kit has M12 and 7/16-20 so my
> thought was, since I have to use the 7/16-20 for
> the rear caliper and I have to tap the fronts for
> M12 anyhow, why not see if the hole is small
> enough for the 7/16-20.

What the fuck?? Since when has no money stopped you?
I'm send some Sapphire knuckles and a pair of bottom arms.
>
>
> > Maybe you send the old discs back and I send
> some
> > knuckles and bolts and nuts.
>
> I have only ever gotten one set of discs from you,
> and those were the ones you just sent recently.

I'll check my records, I sink I sent some.
>
> > you are using M14 studs aren't you?
>
> Nope. ARP long studs M12 length. Two things
> stopping me from M14 are getting the actual studs
> and machining the hubs to take them.

Bugpack 2.2" things are way cheaper than ARP.
And pssing a drill thru the existing holes is fairly easy, its just a chase thru.


But I have a
> spare set of four that will be upgraded to M14
> stuff in the future. For right now I'm sticking
> with M12 studs.
>
> Why allen bolts and not hex head?

Cause that is what the things were designed for and have bolt head clearance for.
>
>
>
> Grant Hughes
> www.nocoastmotorsports.net
> Denver, CO

---

John Vanlandingham
Sleezattle, WA, USA

Vive le Prole-le-ralliat

www.rallyrace.net/jvab
CALL +1 206 431-9696
Remember! Pacific Standard Time
is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time.

Hopefully they didn't end up at a weird address. You've always notified me before you send stuff though and checked on address, so I don't think any ever came this way.
I do have some 11.75X1.25 Wilwood ones I got for play and to have something to hold in my hands and think about when I was thinking about the rears. You can have them though if you want them.

Guess I'll start collecting 14mm studs.

---

Grant Hughes

Put a Compo 17" wheel on the front to see how it looks and the suspension setup is how I wanted!!! Originally the rear sat higher than the front. Now the rear is 3/4 to 1" lower than the front achieving the bit of squat I was hoping for!

---

Grant Hughes

Got some pre-paint prep supplies on Saturday. Went to junkyard today and grabbed four Subaru M12X1.25 bolts to hold front caliper to hub. Going to start masking off tomorrow night and hopefully paint interior next week. Need to take two parts to a machine shop though, find a couple more M8X30mm bolts for the hat to disc as I bought all the hardware store had and was still four short, need to build the front feet boxes as I've decided to change the way I had them done and need to caulk the edges of the sunroof patch and footwell reinforcements and all the random cheese grater holes in the back, before I paint too. Did I mention that my sweet Craftsman jack that I bought a year ago that's been used maybe 20 times total failed and Sears isn't going to do shit. Going to order the 31.5" lift Ranger jack though and build some pin style jack stands. Got some 1/8 X .095 DOM on the way.

Putting things together is the easy part. It's rounding up all of the parts and getting parts that work and are right that's the hard part.

---

Grant Hughes

Some new pics...

---

Grant Hughes

Grant,

You're really doing a great job!!! But you forgot to mention the most important things of all:

WHAT COLOR WILL YOU PAINT THE INTERIOR?
- I vote for the tradionally American medium/light grey.
- I vote against white. (Anything but Euro weeny white!!)

WHAT COLOR WILL YOU PAINT THE EXTERIOR?
- Hope you keep it Black!!!

Rich Smith

White for interior. Helps to keep it cleaner and see any leaks from fuel or brake lines.

Exterior is going to be one of two color schemes.

Based on this design, made by Lauren and I.

The pic is the original color scheme.
The other idea is lime green base, silver bumper/skirts, with a black stripe.

We both like the lime green idea better, but I have lots of auto paint in red, gunmetal grey, and yellow that we bought back in 2005 so that will probably be the winner. Will probably paint the exterior as soon as the RS500 whale tail, side skirts, arches, and front bumper get here.

---

Grant Hughes

Dude if you're going lime green, use Ford Blue for accents rather than black, its Sooper Bitchiner.

---

John Vanlandingham
Sleezattle, WA, USA

Vive le Prole-le-ralliat

www.rallyrace.net/jvab
CALL +1 206 431-9696
Remember! Pacific Standard Time
is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time.