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Doods where do you get your infos?

Posted by john vanlandingham 
Morison
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Re: Doods where do you get your infos?
November 04, 2011 01:14PM
I'm sure you're right Gene - I even suggested we were probably talking fractions of percent in performance and this is more of an exercise in theory than it is anything else. But, given a situation where the tooth sizes and gear strength are similar - understanding this can help in deciding on the driveline bits.

Good point about parasitic loss to the oil...

So this ALL points to a taller box and shorter final drive, assuming everything is available in a strong enough package.
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john vanlandingham
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Re: Doods where do you get your infos?
November 04, 2011 01:47PM
Quote
heymagic
Quote
Rallymech
It is much harder to accelerate the mass of a gear set than that of a prop shaft. This is caused by three factors: more mass in the gear set, more bearings (resistance) in the gear set and more mass at a longer distance from the center line of rotation in a gear set.

Again this is all a bit academic because I would always choose the option with stronger gear teeth.

And I'm pretty sure way more energy is lost to the clutch/flywheel and tires/wheels than you would ever notice on a driveline or mainshaft.

Yeah, always been baffled that so many buy the widest HEAVIEST tires like 17/65 Michelines and those Pirellis that weight 50 lbs each for their 165 bhp Sub-a-rats. They hain't Loeb or Gronholm, they don't drive anywhere like Loeb or Gronholm, they don't need tires like KLoeb or gronholm...

And if they bought sensible tires all us lowly 2wd turbo guys could buy their tale-offs and then spank 'em with their own used tires.

Note the typical propshaft is 2.5" with 0.088 wall tube....not very difficult to rev up..

I'm more concerned about reciprocating weight in all the old school motors most are using: rods and especially pistons. They completely stop and then start again twice every single revolution of the crank....rottating things have some small relative speed change (its already spiing 6000, and it drops to whatever but not much on a gearchange and you just have to change its speed maybe 30%, not slow it down (energy used) then speed it up, then slow it to a stop, the speed it up 100 times a second @6000 rpm.
All I can say is OI!)

I think this is a case of:
<object width="420" height="315"><param name="movie" value="

?version=3&amp;hl=en_US"></param><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"><



John Vanlandingham
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Morison
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Re: Doods where do you get your infos?
November 04, 2011 04:21PM
Quote
john vanlandingham
I think this is a case of...
Not really John.
It is about looking to optimize a tiny teeny bit of performance, or at least understanding how the choices come together. But if you can optimize each component a little it turns into a larger gain when you bring them together.

Specificlly, this is about what's between the transmission input and axles. Engine or wheel/tire gains are great and almost certainly more effective (hell, wheel scrapers are a huge advantage on wettish events.) But that's outside the scope of what I'm batting around here. (Admittedly - even when I first brought it up - a purely 'bench racing' discussion)
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heymagic
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Re: Doods where do you get your infos?
November 04, 2011 04:52PM
Optimizing is always good as long as the benefit is realisticaly weighed against cost and gain. Obviously if 2 different diffs are available and one is trash ....but we don't want people to focus on micro-tech stuff if it costs a bazillion dollars and gives back $20 worth of return. Common sense needs to prevail, always in short supply with racers tho.
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Morison
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Re: Doods where do you get your infos?
November 04, 2011 06:49PM
Quote
heymagic
Common sense needs to prevail, always in short supply with racers tho.
Absolutely!
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john vanlandingham
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Re: Doods where do you get your infos?
October 28, 2013 12:39PM
Quote
john vanlandingham
Quote

Probably irrelevant, but now I'm kind of curious.

Not at all irrelevant, its a good question cause it brings the discussion down to basics, or fundamentals, and that's always good---cause its silly talking about "theoreticals" or effectively un-obtainable stuff like $6000 gear sets.


Quote

Is there any advantage to using longer gears in the box with a shorter final drive vs. using shorter gears in the box with a relatively longer final drive to hit the same overall gearing?

For less stress on the box itself, yeas its better to have "taller' gears---or pointedly less speed reduction and therefore less toque multipication in power that comes into the box. let's see if these piccies help;


or


And here's a link to T5 since we can look at the effect of differeing torque capacities on otherwise basically same boxes:
http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/T5ID.htm

Notice the horrible 4.03 first gearset with a measly 235 ft/lbs rating, the disgusting 3.97 at 240 ft/lbs, the crappy 3.50 at 250 ft/lbs, the sucky virtually identical to Xratty 3.35 at 260 early and a bit more later and note well the NWC 2.95 gearset at 305 ft/lbs, later 2.95 gearsets at 325 ft/lbs.
It all goes down to how much toque is multiplied from input shaft down to cluster gear....like you see in the power flow piccie.

Whatever torque the engine makes gets multipled by whatever the ratio is from input shaft down to cluster gear and the box "sees' that increased torque. Reduce it a whole bunch so first is 4.08, the box is stressed X% more than if you reduce only a bit to make first 2.95-everything else --specifically the centerline distance between the 2 shafts.
That distance is always the first thing you look at
Example the most commonly used rally box in the world for decades is Ford Type9, a 5 speed version of the 4 speed used way back in the Escort MkIIs
It's 69mm between shaft centers. The gear company Tran-X makes a version that is 72mm between centers--evidently worth it. Ford wanted something a bit stronger in-house than the Borg Warner T5 so they made MT75, MT75 4x4 and much later the fwd MTX75.
Quaiffe makes a direct replacement box for the Type 9 that is 80mm c-c and Fords own Group A 4x4 box was called MS90, 90mm between centers.For comparison the box in my diesel van is a Muncie M89, curiously 89mm between centers for the 2 shafts--so a purpsoe built GpA box is sized like what is suitable for a full sized van with a diesel with who da fawk know what I can tow with it..

But after than the ratio from clutch inputshaft down to cluster is the next prime determinant of what torque the box will tolerate.



Quote

I'd think there would be reduced shaft/gearset speeds but have no idea if that has value or relevance. Since you are moving rotating mass, is there a gain in not having to accelerate the mass to the same speed? in a trans-axle car the half-shafts are past the final drive so moving that mass is irrelevant, but in a conventional RWD using a driveshaft between the gears and the final drive is there an advantage to be had in keeping that spinning slower?

Not following the question too well but the kardan or propshaft speed is changing every gear, (in a typical car in first it will be running 1/3.63th crank speed, 1/1.8th crank speed in second etc) the critical speed is what speed is it when in 4th (cause then its running at crankshft speed in a rwd box) or overdrive cause it is spining pretty damn fast

Quote

This is all theoretical, of course, since the availability of gearsets and final drives is probably the real deciding factor.

Well for some boxes such as Type 9 the choices are mind numbing, but for some cars its no problem at all cause nothing is made or made in such short runs it is prohibitively expensive...

Now on the rear end torque is multiplied one more time with another redcuction gear set and again no or limited choice means we can't get things like ratios with tooth counts or materials for competition like some sizes of US axles, notably Ford 9". There you get not only different alloy than the ubiquitous 8620, but different heat treatments for toughness, not 200,000 miles service.
Real competiton stuff may have same ratios as some streety thing but do the ratios with less teeth so the section or base of the tooth is fatter. There's an interesting note in Fords Sierra book in the list of Homologated rear final drives for the stock 7.5" diff which were in 87:
3.64 (51:14) stock<----toothies count, most of the world talks tooth count
4.44 (40:9)
4.63 (51:11)
]4.66 (42:9)
4.88 (44:9)
5.1 (46:9)[/b]

The say "Note there are two closely similar "4.6" ratios for the 7 1/2" rear axle which are in fact, completely different designs...The 4.63 ratio (with 51 crown wheel teeth and 11 pinion teeth) is not reccomended for use in the fully tuned Group A SIERRA COSWORTH RS/RS500 Cosworth"
The highlighted gears were the common gears used , the shortest earlier with 40mm restrictor "up" to the 4,44 in the 34mm restrictor cars. Engines didn't rev so the made them into toque monsters, and didn't NEED
shorter gears.

Notice in the normally used gears they go down in tooth count. They were making the things FAT for strength. i think I have a piccie, its shocking.
(clop clop clop clop clop clop clop clop clop clop clop clop clop, oh yeah here it is, clop clop clop clop clop clop clop clop )



Serious, fundamentally different design, for different usage.

Just thought I'd bump this for all the guys building their nice RWD cars now...



John Vanlandingham
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Clayto
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Re: Doods where do you get your infos?
October 28, 2013 10:08PM
Damn you!
Makes me wanna build a reeer wheel screamersmiling smiley
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john vanlandingham
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Re: Doods where do you get your infos?
October 28, 2013 11:26PM
Quote
Clayto
Damn you!
Makes me wanna build a reeer wheel screamersmiling smiley

Got an extra Xratty sitting right over <------ that ways about 25 feet.



John Vanlandingham
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Vive le Prole-le-ralliat

www.rallyrace.net/jvab
CALL +1 206 431-9696
Remember! Pacific Standard Time
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Clayto
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Re: Doods where do you get your infos?
October 29, 2013 11:33AM
Quote
john vanlandingham
Quote
Clayto
Damn you!
Makes me wanna build a reeer wheel screamersmiling smiley

Got an extra Xratty sitting right over <------ that ways about 25 feet.

Yes, I have gleaned the car from a pic somewhere deep in the website.

I'm a noob to competitive Rally but not a noob to rear wheel fun!

My first rear wheel car was a 84 supra with a great torque band.

Sadly I will have to wait on the Xrattysad smiley

But I will keep that baby in mindsmiling smiley
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Re: Doods where do you get your infos?
October 29, 2013 03:08PM
If or when I build a rwd car i would run a used Nascar trans and a quick change rear end. Any gear set you want from 218 to 915 final drive for $49.00 and an aluminum tube magnesium housing rear end for around $400 used or spend the big bucks and buy new for under $1500. Put a used black gold diff for another $300.00 and you would have a damn near bullet proof with any ratio for any conditions to at least 850hp. They may take more then 850hp but thats all I can say for sure because thats the most power Ive put down with one on tarmac.

As for OL verses PGT who cares theres no PGT cars to race with and the rules suck! OL to me would be the better choice of the 2. If it were fwd or rwd I would go rear because of how cheap and easy the build would,could be. Thats my 2 cents any who.



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