I know we've worked on this thing since February, hard to see the progress... we got the motor and tranny mounts done, almost too fancy to show all the lowlifes on here:









we also filled some trim holes only minimally warping the body and worked on filling the rear fender well section we cut out.

The car will be moving to Primitive Racing next week for the final chassis prep; extensive roll cage, steering quickener, dual master cylinders and hydraulic handbrake.

I'm not sure on which pedal box setup to run, he's running FC RX7 front Calipers and girling volvo rear calipers. What should the pedal ratio be? I can pretty much fit any configuration in there because it's a very spacious car.

My 242 (kevins car) had those RX7 calipers, and Volvo rears. .612 front master, .725 rear, stock pads, and I changed the pedal ratio from 4-1 which it was when I got the car, to as close to 6-1 as I could get it. pretty good, balance bar was 2 turns to the rear, and the pedal effort was firm but a bit stiff for my liking. a more aggressive pad would have solved that. I have since switched to the Willwoods and a bit more aggressive Hawk pad, .750 front and rear masters, and I am very happy with it. Balance bar is now 4 turns to the rear, with neutral feeling brakes.

Sean, In kevins car it's just a modified stock pedal box right? I'm not sure I want to mess with making my own.

My Tilton pedal set is 6.2:1, works awesome I think. Small Willwood 4 pots in front and Volvo 2 pots in rear. Don't recall MC sizes but I run even to slightly front biased brake pressure. I have Carbotech pads now, big improvement over the random stuff that was in there before.

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John Reed
John Reed Racing
www.johnreedracing.com
johnreedracing@gmail.com

Yes it is a stock pedal box modified to accept the masters and the balance bar.

Kevvie and I did it, nice and simple when the whole section of the firewall comes out.

There might be some piccies, I know there was but may have been on Kevvies UW account, now long gone.

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John Vanlandingham
Sleezattle, WA, USA

Vive le Prole-le-ralliat

www.rallyrace.net/jvab
CALL +1 206 431-9696
Remember! Pacific Standard Time
is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time.

Thats right. That whole panel just unbolts. Genius.

Bits of progress going on here. Got my Aem ems4 from the one and only mr John reed. A fancy computer is worthless though if you don't have a lump to listen to it. That problem has been mostly solved thanks to Al. We still need to complete then transaction but I'm buying his 20 over b23ft with NOS Mahle pistons, some assembly required.

The new motor mounts and transmission mount are now done, with the exception of getting them coated. Blake did an amazing job. The mounts in his celica will use the same bushings so Blake fabbed up a pair of dummy bushings so we don't keep destroying good new rubber during fitting.



Everything seems to be fitting nicely so far, about half inch of clearance to the steering column and the remote oil filter might be a tight fit but should work out. Here they sit with the mock up cradle removed.




I've got a long list of parts to order here today in prep for the cage fitment, steering quickener, handbrake, etc. hoping to get it turned into a rolling chassis, off the spit, and over to primitive shortly. Anxious and loving it.

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Zap zap my ass...

Just a comment--not a criticism, so you don't have to join the chorus saying I am a big meanie...But if the mounts go OVER the chassi-rail and up the inner fender well, it spreads the load over a much much larger area..And with the mount being lower on the assembly the massive weight of the lump of iron aka the Redblock is force going V that-a-way. Trying to pull vertical metal down is nicer than if the whole sheet-metal mount is sticking out horisontal.

Think of it as the weight can be resting on the TOP of the chassi rail too instead of the side of the rail having to resist all the bend load all by itself..

In the few 6-8 cages I've done I like to make foot plates go up a vertical part like the inner wall of a sill So force V on a flat plate ____ is one thing, force down on a L is better-er-er

What thickness of metal you use for the weld on bits?
The works Ford things which were so much wider and went over the top were made of .0625...1/16"...and weight nothing.

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John Vanlandingham
Sleezattle, WA, USA

Vive le Prole-le-ralliat

www.rallyrace.net/jvab
CALL +1 206 431-9696
Remember! Pacific Standard Time
is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time.

Thanks for the concern john. I can see your, and ford's reasoning, but I think these will work out just fine. If a problem arises, doubtful though, these things are pretty stout and larger than appear in the pic, then we can add triangles running up the inner fender well.

It was not weight but room, among other things, that concerned us with the grp A design. You sent me a set of the ford stuff so we were able to play with it. We would have had to modify the subframe mounting and with the turbo the exhaust side would have been incredibly cramped.

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Zap zap my ass...

The mounts on the chassis rail are 14 gauge so only slightly thicker than 1/16" but still extremely light. The arms that go to the block on the other hand are pretty heavy being made out 2.25"x.125" wall DOM for the bushing and 1.75"x.095" for the middle section and a 3/16" plate on the block.

I value your input John but like Pat said it was a space thing.

Gathering engine rebuild supplies. What is common, good practice with cylinder head bolts, new or reuse?

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Zap zap my ass...

Quote
slidewayswrx
Gathering engine rebuild supplies. What is common, good practice with cylinder head bolts, new or reuse?

Studs.

I won't say I have never re-used head bolts, but I try not to especially on something that will get run hard.

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John Reed
John Reed Racing
www.johnreedracing.com
johnreedracing@gmail.com

Blake is making some damn good looking progress if I do say so myself. Loving it! Dropping the dash off tomorrow so we can fit the dash bar. Then it's time to knock the cage feet down and get it fully welded up.

On other fronts, Al should be stopping by with the start of my engine build in about 2 weeks time. I also continue to scrub and catalog items. Hopefully by the time this thing gets back from paint everything else will be prepped to that point that it is basically just assembly time. Onward

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Zap zap my ass...



Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 01/06/2014 09:03PM by slidewayswrx.

Sweet, volvo number 2 with cage being built on here! Looking awesome. Looking at your floors/ footrest area, am I correct in saying that the drainage holes are all welded up?