Volvo 1030 axles

I just replaced rear brakes on an '05 Mustang. Calipers were only $50ish for reman (excluding cores ) and they have the cable ebrake. Might be an option for some use?

It seems to me that if you have to go thru some expense and effort to locate old Volvo stuff that may be a future issue, or Toyota stuff that once done is pretty bullet proof....just get it over with the first time?? Or go the 8.8 route if that is realistic , lots of Fords being sold daily, old Supras aren't that plentiful any more and that will only get worse with time.

Gene you make sense and this is what I was thinking at first but there are issues for me.

First of all Matts cost break down makes some sense but there are a few things I would like to add.

R&P 200$ Because I have looked and can't find one with a 4.88 from the factory around here. I think the trucks have it but I'm not counting on it.

100$ for driveline? Is this what you mean by driveshaft because I find this very hard to believe.

Still need an e brake. This car will see a bit of street use, it has to be there no exceptions. Preferably a mechanical one.

If you're swapping a toyota axle in your probably doing the 4 link thing as well. The volvo axle I could leave for a while.

So this takes is to 1000$ but more importantly time to put it all together. The volvo axle I can have together in a weekend. Which is handy when you don't have full time access to the garage anymore.

However if matt helps me with axles…. grrr i dunno I'm on the fence. I just want the car to be good to go, not pouring another 30 hours into swapping an axle in. Which is what it would take for me and my lower fab skills.

On a side note how much more does the toyota axle weight out of curiosity?

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Eric Ewert
Gene you make sense and this is what I was thinking at first but there are issues for me.

First of all Matts cost break down makes some sense but there are a few things I would like to add.

R&P 200$ Because I have looked and can't find one with a 4.88 from the factory around here. I think the trucks have it but I'm not counting on it.

100$ for driveline? Is this what you mean by driveshaft because I find this very hard to believe.

Still need an e brake. This car will see a bit of street use, it has to be there no exceptions. Preferably a mechanical one.

If you're swapping a toyota axle in your probably doing the 4 link thing as well. The volvo axle I could leave for a while.

So this takes is to 1000$ but more importantly time to put it all together. The volvo axle I can have together in a weekend. Which is handy when you don't have full time access to the garage anymore.

However if matt helps me with axles…. grrr i dunno I'm on the fence. I just want the car to be good to go, not pouring another 30 hours into swapping an axle in. Which is what it would take for me and my lower fab skills.

On a side note how much more does the toyota axle weight out of curiosity?

You are right, the 4.88 are becoming harder and harder to find. Either people know what they have and want way to fucking much, or you have to start doing the math with what they have posted on a CL ad and hope there is a 4.88 in there.

Note that my swap didn't go into a Volvo. My driveline (driveshaft) was a shortening of a stock toyota one, so there was no new things being done just chopping out of a couple inches, I went from a toyota tranny to a toyota diff in my mazda.

the stock volvo calipers dont do the e brake, so that fudges that idea. On the Volvo I just sold the guy who build the fancy 4 link made brackets to fit GM metric calipers that do have an e brake caliper available. Now this was to be used on a RX7 turbo rotor with a 5 x 4.5 lug, so that doesn't really help you all that much.



As for the 4 link swap, I'll once again get shit on for this, but as I just bought another volvo as a play car/DD and have been laying around under the car and looking at shit, I honestly have no effing clue why anyone would toss out the stock volvo four link in favor of another one. Sure, maybe like Al did and make shock turret but leave the stock links, I could get behind that, but why fuck with something that is already there. But that's just me. Let the flaming commence.

You will pour a decent amount time into doing something that is not volvo. I just did mine over time, but I had the luxury of doing that, my car didn't move under it's own power. But building a jig to swap stock mounts over, and welding it all up, having my axles at a machine shop, it all takes time, and I guess it's all depends on your goals.

From what I found on the ole interweb, the two axles are comparable in weight. Empty, the toyota axle was rather light a very easy one person pick it up. The 3rd member was a beast to wrestle in while laying on my back.

Good luck

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"Rally racing makes a heroin addiction look like a vague craving for something salty"



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 10/10/2014 12:16PM by mellow65.

If you are doing a T5 trans to a 1030 axle, there is an easy driveline solution. A Ford mustang driveshaft fits with a neat little adaptor from Yoshifab.com in San Diego.


A one piece driveshaft is a better solution with the T5 than the volvo two-piece.

At this level, the only real downside to the 1030 is lack of decent LSD, since we have already established that gearing is available, and reasonably priced.

SAM offers 2 types. A racing clutch pack ~$2000, and a torsen style LSD ~$1000
Detroit Trutrac is $500 and is also a Torsen LSD, and it's readily available.

I'm with Matt on the stock Volvo 5-link. The mounts may need to be reinforced for the torque rods (aka- the upper ones), since they are a little weak. Other than that, you are just minimizing the amount of rotation the diff does through it's travel and the plunge on the drive shaft. I am all for adding a Watts link instead of the panhard bar though.
I guess you could play with the suspension jacking forces, but who has time to do that anyways?

with the 1030 I would just weld it and call it a day. Sucks that you can't get a spool for it but oh well.

Interesting data. The whole swap thing looks to be more pricey than originally let on.

Around here driveline stuff is pretty costly. The local driveline whiz retired a few years ago. The guy had a corner stall in a wrecking yard and was simply amazing on what he could throw together and didn't vibrate. The big dollar shop in Olympia never could match his work and they charge 4 times as much.

Man .. this thread makes a final drive / LSD upgrade on a subaru look Cheap and Easy... (well it is easy) $300 for the finals. $45 extra for a rear plated lsd. $400 or $40 for a front ...

but man. that sucks.. i hope you find an easier / cheaper short cut some how

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heymagic
Interesting data. The whole swap thing looks to be more pricey than originally let on.

Around here driveline stuff is pretty costly. The local driveline whiz retired a few years ago. The guy had a corner stall in a wrecking yard and was simply amazing on what he could throw together and didn't vibrate. The big dollar shop in Olympia never could match his work and they charge 4 times as much.

No he just happened to inherit a late car like a 92 or something.. And he's a kid, and impatient and he's just started college a coupla weeks ago. He want the EASIEST way...and he wants it now.
You know the rules: easy cheap fast.. Pick TWO.
Had he planned his last visit just a bit better he could have gone home with a plain jane Dana 30 axle for less than one night of drinking bill. But that trip was kinda spontaneous and about having fun..

---

John Vanlandingham
Sleezattle, WA, USA

Vive le Prole-le-ralliat

www.rallyrace.net/jvab
CALL +1 206 431-9696
Remember! Pacific Standard Time
is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time.

Yup and there was no way in hell that a dana was fitting in the back of my car!

And now would be nice. Al I am very awhere of the yoshi fab deal which is part of the reason I would like a dana.

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Eric Ewert
And now would be nice. Al I am very awhere of the yoshi fab deal which is part of the reason I would like a dana.

A where?
M'kay but I hain't aware of whatchoo alluding to? What Yoshi-fab deal?

He does make a nice tensioner set up for plopping the 16v head on..
And a nice shortened dizzy for 16v when used on 240s.

What youse dancin' around?

---

John Vanlandingham
Sleezattle, WA, USA

Vive le Prole-le-ralliat

www.rallyrace.net/jvab
CALL +1 206 431-9696
Remember! Pacific Standard Time
is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time.

John,


The yoshi fab thing is a little aluminumininamum spacer that goes between the rear yolk and the input flange on a 1030 so that you can go to the yunkyard and get a fordge musktank drive shaft and slip it right into your T5 equiped volvo 240. Except that I don't see it on Yoshi's website anymore....

Josh at yoshifab has stuff he doesn't show on his website. Talk to him on the phone. Awesome guy.

Yes I know about his goodies for 16v stuff. That is a whole other topic.

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Eric Ewert
Josh at yoshifab has stuff he doesn't show on his website. Talk to him on the phone. Awesome guy.

Yes I know about his goodies for 16v stuff. That is a whole other topic.

I have. a lot. Sold him several flywheels and he was 'spossed to be sending moolah for 3 more--think he forgot to send money but hey he's busy.

As for a flange adaptor what U-joint does volvo use? There are adaptor u-joints like 1310 on one plane and 1320 on the there. Moose-angst is probably 1310.. Maybe you need the length the spacer provides..

---

John Vanlandingham
Sleezattle, WA, USA

Vive le Prole-le-ralliat

www.rallyrace.net/jvab
CALL +1 206 431-9696
Remember! Pacific Standard Time
is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time.