ae86 build.....

Ok…so I just picked up a 1985 Corolla SR5 for a rwd rally car project. I’m looking for some input on how to bring it up to “Rally spec”.

Here are the areas I’ve thought about so far, any input/opinions are appreciated:

Brakes – I’ve heard rumors of RX-7 4-pots (front) fitting. Not sure how easy. I need to swap in a proper GTS rear-end for rear disks…or is there a SR5 rear disk conversion out there?

Transmission/Rear Diff – 4.7 or ?? TRD close ratio T50 box or W58, dog-b?

Front Suspension – JVL super bitchen set-up?

Rear Suspension – Watts linkage….4 link….coilovers?

Engine – I have a 20valve “silver top” ready to be built. Need to check the G2 rules to see how big I can go on the bottom end.

Steering – Power or manual? Lots of manual quick racks available…not very many power ones. Never driven a manual steering rally car….easy…or big time arm pump?

Wheels – I see lots of 14”s out there…anyone run 15”s?

I think those are the main topics. Thanks in advance……

Andrew
Universalrally.com

Talk to Adam Crane. His seems pretty sweet.
Also, check out the Escort manual on here. Mimic anything and everything.

Group 2 for RA can go to 3.0, but with lots of weight. Stick with the 4AGE and get the thing to rev, close ratio tranny and 5.X or so final drive.

---

Grant Hughes

NoCoast Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Talk to Adam Crane. His seems pretty sweet.
> Also, check out the Escort manual on here. Mimic
> anything and everything.
>
> Group 2 for RA can go to 3.0, but with lots of
> weight. Stick with the 4AGE and get the thing to
> rev, close ratio tranny and 5.X or so final drive.
>
> Grant Hughes
> www.nocoastmotorsports.net
> Denver, CO

Actually his has some headers and suspenders but is otherwise stock.
Stock like 140,000 miles.

Oh he did put a new coil on before this weekend.
Or a new used coil, "Never ran better".

---

John Vanlandingham
Sleezattle, WA, USA

Vive le Prole-le-ralliat

www.rallyrace.net/jvab
CALL +1 206 431-9696
Remember! Pacific Standard Time
is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time.

john vanlandingham Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Actually his has some headers and suspenders but
> is otherwise stock.
> Stock like 140,000 miles.

I had thought he'd done some rear suspension stuff too.

Engine is the easy part though really. High compression pistons, longer rods, ported head with a sick cam, ITBs (I recall ITBs are stock on the silver top 2.0?), header, megasquirt or similar, and go fast.

---

Grant Hughes

yeah...the engine is pretty text book. Goal is 200hp. 7A built bottom end (1800cc), proper head w/ cams, header, itb's (stock) and a stand-alone ems.

Long term project....

John - You get my email about the suspension options?

urr Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> John - You get my email about the suspension
> options?
No, try again.
Or call on the telephone! 20 six 4 3 One 9696

And look at the CAD-porn that Tim Taylor over in San Leandro has been taunting us with for the rear shock towers we're making to weld into the other rwd cars like Volvo or AE86 so we can use decent length rear shocks.

---

John Vanlandingham
Sleezattle, WA, USA

Vive le Prole-le-ralliat

www.rallyrace.net/jvab
CALL +1 206 431-9696
Remember! Pacific Standard Time
is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time.

Talk to Tony De La Cuesta - I'll look for some contact info. He's built and rallied 2 or 3 of these and is always willing to chat (might hook you up with some free Motul stuff too!).

Eli

john vanlandingham Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> urr Wrote:
> --------------------------------------------------
> -----
> > John - You get my email about the suspension
> > options?
> No, try again.
> Or call on the telephone! 20 six 4 3 One 9696
>
> And look at the CAD-porn that Tim Taylor over in
> San Leandro has been taunting us with for the rear
> shock towers we're making to weld into the other
> rwd cars like Volvo or AE86 so we can use decent
> length rear shocks.
>
>
>
>
> John Vanlandingham
> Sleezattle, WA, USA
>
> Vive le Prole-le-ralliat
>
> www.jvab.f4.ca

edit - Tim's stuff looks great...screw fabbing my own sheeet!

How much longer do I need to go? I can fab new rear shock towers...just not sure how much higher to make the mounting points?





Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 02/27/2008 12:33PM by urr.

urr Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> yeah...the engine is pretty text book. Goal is
> 200hp. 7A built bottom end (1800cc), proper head
> w/ cams, header, itb's (stock) and a stand-alone
> ems.
>
> Long term project....

Andrew, why not the nice 3GSE motor, make the 200 bhp goal easier and get some of those torque things too.
I just can't see the value of any 5 valve head when we are in classes that allow modification of 4 valve heads, and between the 4AGE and the 5 valve, it really is the ITB setr up which allows the extra air in, not necessarily the extra little valve.

Torque is good.

---

John Vanlandingham
Sleezattle, WA, USA

Vive le Prole-le-ralliat

www.rallyrace.net/jvab
CALL +1 206 431-9696
Remember! Pacific Standard Time
is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time.

urr Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
>
> How much longer do I need to go? I can fab new
> rear shock towers...just not sure how much higher
> to make the mounting points?

Well we can have a look, and a lot depends of course where you want to make the mounts on the axle.
I like to put them at about 1 or 2 O'clock looking at driver's side, seems to me the safest , and that makes the towers high enough and in good position to tie the cage rear elements into.

Maybe the "universal tower" thing that Tim and I are doing would be easy and suitable---that is the intention in making them, and they're set up for the eyelet top mounts and spacers.
>
>

---

John Vanlandingham
Sleezattle, WA, USA

Vive le Prole-le-ralliat

www.rallyrace.net/jvab
CALL +1 206 431-9696
Remember! Pacific Standard Time
is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time.

Ok, I'm also building a 86. I talked to John a bit too. I'll comment IN your post, because im that special.



urr Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Ok…so I just picked up a 1985 Corolla SR5 for a
> rwd rally car project. I’m looking for some input
> on how to bring it up to “Rally spec”.
>
> Here are the areas I’ve thought about so far, any
> input/opinions are appreciated:
>
> Brakes – I’ve heard rumors of RX-7 4-pots (front)
> fitting. Not sure how easy. I need to swap in a
> proper GTS rear-end for rear disks…or is there a
> SR5 rear disk conversion out there?

No SR5 disc conversion. Diff is smaller anyway. Besides, no LSDs for said little diff. RX7 brakes work, but you HAVE to run 15s. Be prepared for that.

>
> Transmission/Rear Diff – 4.7 or ?? TRD close
> ratio T50 box or W58, dog-b?
>

W58 is a HEAVY muthafucker. But its strong. Good for turbo cars. 4.7 is the highest RP you can get for the stock rear end, as the TRD 4.9 isnt made anymore. The TRD close ratio kit is roughly $2500 give or take 400 bucks. And it still is weak.


> Front Suspension – JVL super bitchen set-up?
>

There's that and DMS. I chose Johns stuff because its local, its shiny, and i was able to learn a lot about suspension while I was at his place. And languages. And Volvos. And Escorts. And Human interactions. And Saabs. And Crazy acid trips whilst eating pages. And a whole bunch of other things. Johns stuff is also pretty well priced.


> Rear Suspension – Watts linkage….4
> link….coilovers?
>
4 link FTW. Is easy. And Johns rear coil overs


> Engine – I have a 20valve “silver top” ready to be
> built. Need to check the G2 rules to see how big
> I can go on the bottom end.
>

Ok. I'm going to be blunt. Your being *very* stupid.

avg silvertop price. $2000
avg install price $4000 (are you doing this yourself)
Avg gain Maybe 15 horses. Maybe 10 torque.

So for 6k you can have an OLD, NON REBUILT engine that you can say, "Well, it sucks, BUT [italics] I've got *5* valves and *ITBS* [/italics]"

OR

You could do I did and spend LESS then 3k and build the ever loving shit out of a 16 valve, get around 160-170 TO THE WHEELS (and yes, thats REAR wheels) and a BRAND NEW ENGINE. With itbs.

Just a thought.


> Steering – Power or manual? Lots of manual quick
> racks available…not very many power ones. Never
> driven a manual steering rally car….easy…or big
> time arm pump?

Power steering. Until you wieght roughly 150 pounds and your Co driver too, dont worry about the weight savings, OR the 2 hp it takes away. As for the ratio, im not sure. You could always get a circle track quickener. Somewhere around here you can see Tom Burress's instal in his rabbit.


> Wheels – I see lots of 14”s out there…anyone run
> 15”s?
>

Every subaru or anything with a turbo will basically run 15's



> I think those are the main topics. Thanks in
> advance……
>




> Andrew
> Universalrally.com
>

---

Welcome to the cult of JVL drink the koolaid or be banned.

>
> Maybe the "universal tower" thing that Tim and I
> are doing would be easy and suitable---that is the
> intention in making them, and they're set up for
> the eyelet top mounts and spacers.
> >

Yeah, after looking at them I think I'm sold!

So you don't think the stock lower mounting location (roughly 3 o'clock I think) is accpetable?

Dazed_Driver Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Ok, I'm also building a 86. I talked to John a bit
> too. I'll comment IN your post, because im that
> special.
>
>
>
> urr Wrote:
> --------------------------------------------------
> -----
> > Ok…so I just picked up a 1985 Corolla SR5 for
> a
> > rwd rally car project. I’m looking for some
> input
> > on how to bring it up to “Rally spec”.
> >
> > Here are the areas I’ve thought about so far,
> any
> > input/opinions are appreciated:
> >
> > Brakes – I’ve heard rumors of RX-7 4-pots
> (front)
> > fitting. Not sure how easy. I need to swap
> in a
> > proper GTS rear-end for rear disks…or is
> there a
> > SR5 rear disk conversion out there?
>
> No SR5 disc conversion. Diff is smaller anyway.
> Besides, no LSDs for said little diff. RX7 brakes
> work, but you HAVE to run 15s. Be prepared for
> that.
>
> >
> > Transmission/Rear Diff – 4.7 or ?? TRD
> close
> > ratio T50 box or W58, dog-b?
> >
>
> W58 is a HEAVY muthafucker. But its strong. Good
> for turbo cars. 4.7 is the highest RP you can get
> for the stock rear end, as the TRD 4.9 isnt made
> anymore. The TRD close ratio kit is roughly $2500
> give or take 400 bucks. And it still is weak.
>
>
> > Front Suspension – JVL super bitchen set-up?
> >
>
> There's that and DMS. I chose Johns stuff because
> its local, its shiny, and i was able to learn a
> lot about suspension while I was at his place. And
> languages. And Volvos. And Escorts. And Human
> interactions. And Saabs. And Crazy acid trips
> whilst eating pages. And a whole bunch of other
> things. Johns stuff is also pretty well priced.

figured as much

>
> > Rear Suspension – Watts linkage….4
> > link….coilovers?
> >
> 4 link FTW. Is easy. And Johns rear coil overs
>
>
> > Engine – I have a 20valve “silver top” ready
> to be
> > built. Need to check the G2 rules to see how
> big
> > I can go on the bottom end.
> >
>
> Ok. I'm going to be blunt. Your being *very*
> stupid.
>
> avg silvertop price. $2000
> avg install price $4000 (are you doing this
> yourself)
> Avg gain Maybe 15 horses. Maybe 10 torque.
>
> So for 6k you can have an OLD, NON REBUILT engine
> that you can say, "Well, it sucks, BUT I've got
> *5* valves and *ITBS* "

blunt is ok....just annoying when it's incorrect!

hmmm..not sure where you get your silver tops but mine cost $325 on ebay! I have a t50...just need the proper bell housing ($150 or so...ebay again). it might hit $6k if you include a motec m4 and trd gear set mentioned above but motor and install will not exceed $3k for me...and done right because that's how I do it.....

yes, I do almost everything myself....some of my work is on my website if you need references....


> > Steering – Power or manual? Lots of manual
> quick
> > racks available…not very many power ones.
> Never
> > driven a manual steering rally car….easy…or
> big
> > time arm pump?
>
> Power steering. Until you wieght roughly 150
> pounds and your Co driver too, dont worry about
> the weight savings, OR the 2 hp it takes away. As
> for the ratio, im not sure. You could always get a
> circle track quickener. Somewhere around here you
> can see Tom Burress's instal in his rabbit.

I have an inline quickener in my Subaru...I prefer a proper rack. I drove a escort at the Idaho tarmac rally last year with manual steering...it was bearable.

> > Wheels – I see lots of 14”s out there…anyone
> run
> > 15”s?
> >
>
> Every subaru or anything with a turbo will
> basically run 15's
>
Yes..I ran 15's on my SRT and the same on my Subaru. I know some golf guys prefer 15's over 14's....just wasn't sure if they fit properly in the yota.


> Feisty Peacock?

lol...thanks for the info.

Ok, so you've got the engine then, what are you doing for the heater lines? also, are you rebuilding it? When did you pick up the engine?


BTW, john said something vaguely about some SAAB people getting like 1 second a mile faster with power steering and nothing else.


PS, have you ever worked on the corollas before?

---

Welcome to the cult of JVL drink the koolaid or be banned.