ae86 build.....

Dazed_Driver Wrote:
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> Well, I think its an issue of length. Where the
> gear stick ends up.

So cut the old shift lever off about 2" north of the pivot, cut the pivot off of an inner tie rod end from something (VW works good, anything 12mm works fine really), weld the two together, and bend it to put the knob where you want.

Ever seen the shift lever in a Cobra? The pivot was about at the rear firewall and the lever was almost flat coming forward to put the knob where a driver could actually reach it. Looked goofy but the drivers could work it just fine.

---

Pete Remner
Cleveland, Ohio

1984 RX-7 (rallycross thing)
1978
Silence is golden, but duct tape is silver.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 03/19/2008 07:35AM by Pete.

The beams engine uses electronic throttle positioning. Have fun with that.
Plus the oil pan hits the crossmember and the shifter is too far back.

You might also want to look at the rules...(rally America) Grp. 2- Less displacement allows you to be lighter. A beams 3sge (1998cc) engine makes the car have to weigh 2205 lbs. An overbored 4age (up to 1660cc) allows the car to weigh 2028 lbs.

Less weight over the front axle with a 4ag.

Fuck the Beams pipe dream dude.. Build it 4ag like the rest of the mortal world.

---

Michael LeCompte



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 03/19/2008 11:50PM by pikespeakgtx.

pikespeakgtx Wrote:
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> The beams engine uses electronic throttle
> positioning.

Stock, so who cares, throttle bodies are easy.


Have fun with that.
> Plus the oil pan hits the crossmember and the
> shifter is too far back.

And Oh yeah, nobody has ever modified an oil pan, sheeeeeeut.
>
> You might also want to look at the rules...(rally
> America) Grp. 2- Less displacement allows you to
> be lighter. A beams 3sge (1998cc) engine makes the
> car have to weigh 2205 lbs. An overbored 4age (up
> to 1660cc) allows the car to weigh 2028 lbs.

Come on who's seriously worrying about minimum weights?
>
> Less weight over the front axle with a 4ag.

Exactly how much?
>
> Fuck the Beams pipe dream dude.. Build it 4ag like
> the rest of the mortal world.

I really don't know how many engines you've built of various sizes, but reccommending somebody to build a 1600 motor in a class which allows motors up to and over 50% larger, (and as we all know TORQUE is what we're really after in one way or another, and all things being (more or less ) equal a motor 25% larger like 2000ccc vs a 1600, we can all expect 25% more torque) is recommending to somebody to do something which will hurt their competitiveness, and hurt their results and worst of all cost them FUN.

A year or so ago I helped the "tear down guy" at the machine shop finish building his Honda B16 thing. Cool motor. Kid got JDM hi comp pistons, and JDM OEM cams, luclily match the higher comp with the longer duration cams and with some aftermarket springs and retainers , once it was in, that thing screamed. Did well over 9500 rpm, crazy fast. I helped him cause I wanted to help him AND see how a modern hot motor went.
Ran into my buddy today at the machine shop.
First thing he says "Duuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuude! You remember you was always telling me to try the 2 liter stuff I had laying around? OH man! I did and I loved the TORQUE! That thing PULLED and it revved too. Thank you thank you (kiss kiss hug hug!!)

If there was a 1600 class, then I wouldn't suggest building 2,0s.
The isn't so I suggest a easy reasonable size based on years of seeing makes guys smile a LOT.


Please, remember when you're suggesting one thing vs the next that ultimately you're saying "Spend this much money for this on your rally car......."

And that which gives the most SMILES per dollar spent is what keeps boys in the sport longer. (and a set of real, proper 2,0 pistons costs exactly the same as a set of 1600 pistons)

Not theoretical ideals.
>
>
>
>
>
> Edited 1 times. Last edit at Mar 19, 2008 by
> pikespeakgtx.

---

John Vanlandingham
Sleezattle, WA, USA

Vive le Prole-le-ralliat

www.rallyrace.net/jvab
CALL +1 206 431-9696
Remember! Pacific Standard Time
is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time.

>Please, remember when you're suggesting one thing vs the next that ultimately you're >saying "Spend this much money for this on your rally car......."

>And that which gives the most SMILES per dollar spent is what keeps boys in the >sport longer. (and a set of real, proper 2,0 pistons costs exactly the same as a set >of 1600 pistons)

Well said. And I agree with you 100% that torque rules.

And Hey.... more power to him. If you got money buckets pouring out your ass do a Beams swap.

>Come on who's seriously worrying about minimum weights?

You of all people should. Ok next time you rally I'll throw my retarded 300 lb cousin in the back seat... you don't mind loosing how many seconds per mile?

---

Michael LeCompte

Firstly, I care about minimum weights. My car is a 1600. Why are bikes fast? Power to weight.

secondly, in the 2.0 class, Adam Cranes OLD BEAT ASS 1.6 4ag with NOTHING BUT HEADERS AND MEGASQUIRT (stockish map) seems to be doing pretty good.

---

Welcome to the cult of JVL drink the koolaid or be banned.

Dazed_Driver Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Firstly, I care about minimum weights. My car is a
> 1600. Why are bikes fast? Power to weight.
>
> secondly, in the 2.0 class, Adam Cranes OLD BEAT
> ASS 1.6 4ag with NOTHING BUT HEADERS AND
> MEGASQUIRT (stockish map) seems to be doing pretty
> good.

Seems to be. Good placings but Adam knows he go so much better with a stronger motor.

And you care about weight for the same reason I cared about it when I was your age.

I hadn't raced enough.

>
> Feisty Peacock?

---

John Vanlandingham
Sleezattle, WA, USA

Vive le Prole-le-ralliat

www.rallyrace.net/jvab
CALL +1 206 431-9696
Remember! Pacific Standard Time
is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time.

Actually, I care about weight because its just another way to gain an advantage. Now, if your a bicyclist, and are going mountain biking, and want to spend 100+ on a titanium seat stem... you're crazy. Take a shit, you'll lose less weight for a lot less money. When you start shitting double digits, number one, Give bono a call (south park anyone?) and two, THEN you can say its not so much needed.

---

Welcome to the cult of JVL drink the koolaid or be banned.

picasaweb.google.com/acrane

There are some pictures of some stuff somewhere.
eventually, i'll weigh the car accurately. (think 2350 light fuel)

87 documented horsies at the wheels. SUCK IT

Not on Megasquirt, here's why. ( no such thing as a "stockish map" timm, it's tuned or it's not)
The great thing about a stock motor is that the stock efi will always run it better than you can. especially a tweeky Japan Motor( silvertop)
another great thing is that, the motor will run FOREVER - no mater what.
dare me to run an entire rally without shifting out of 2nd.

my reasoning for 2 Liters?
because that's what that pig stormer Rabbit has,
And i'll be damned If I only beat a rabbit that cannot finish.
I'll beat it on stage times.

Bullshit hype

Timm, Where can YOU save us weight in a corolla. 100word essay due tomorrow

---

"I put the hurt on dirt" - adam crane
http://CraneRallyCrew.com
corolla gt-s "Patches"
Op: S.S.

Fuck that! I never did essays in school, you thinks ima gonna do it here?

---

Welcome to the cult of JVL drink the koolaid or be banned.

Dazed_Driver Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Fuck that! I never did essays in school, you
> thinks ima gonna do it here?
>
> Feisty Peacock?

Whatever you think is worthwhile reducing ounces and maybe a few pounds here of there, YOU still won't guarantee you'll beat somebody who makes LESS mistakes, and catches more of his mistakes earlier BECAUSE HE WAS DRIVING THE CAR in the woods practicing while you were fawkin with it in the garage.

---

John Vanlandingham
Sleezattle, WA, USA

Vive le Prole-le-ralliat

www.rallyrace.net/jvab
CALL +1 206 431-9696
Remember! Pacific Standard Time
is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time.

acrane Wrote:
> The great thing about a stock motor is that the
> stock efi will always run it better than you can.
> especially a tweeky Japan Motor( silvertop)

The OEMs have to do things like keep cats alive and or keep them "lit" so they get wonky with ignition sometimes and run them waay too rich at full load so you generally *can* make more power.

And once you put headers on it or a different exhaust system, it ain't stock no mo'.

I *know* that a certain "tweeky Japan motor" will pick up 20-30hp with aftermarket EFI because the stock EFI has a flapper air meter with a maybe 1" by 2" hole in it, and besides the stock computer won't run more than about a 67-70% duty cycle no matter what you do to try and fool it. This isn't conjecture and internet boasting, it's proven time and again.

---

Pete Remner
Cleveland, Ohio

1984 RX-7 (rallycross thing)
1978
Silence is golden, but duct tape is silver.

stock motor stock motor stock motor.
the silvertop and 20v things don't have flapper doors.
we' have done tuning back to back with wideband 02 mega-squirt to stock on my stock motor. it was impressive to see the stock ECU rock-solid @ 12.9a/f from 3-7500RPM wide open. better drive ability and reliability as long as i'm still stock.
http://picasaweb.google.com/acrane/RallyCarsTimmMegasquirt
thanks to
Spitfireefi.com
who will be Dyno-tuning this well driven car (to find that 30 proven? HP) and another quick VW soon.

---

"I put the hurt on dirt" - adam crane
http://CraneRallyCrew.com
corolla gt-s "Patches"
Op: S.S.

John your right, it is better to be driving instead of working on the car. So, while im STILL BUILDING THE DAMN THING, and there fore, it cannot be driven (no engine installed = no power) I might as well install lighter shit, take stuff out I dont need, and such. I'm not seeing why this is so hard to comprehend.

---

Welcome to the cult of JVL drink the koolaid or be banned.

acrane Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> stock motor stock motor stock motor.
> the silvertop and 20v things don't have flapper
> doors.
> we' have done tuning back to back with wideband 02
> mega-squirt to stock on my stock motor. it was
> impressive to see the stock ECU rock-solid @
> 12.9a/f from 3-7500RPM wide open. better drive
> ability and reliability as long as i'm still
> stock.

If 12.9 is optimal for power then good. That's *one* setup that works well. It ain't necessarily true for all of 'em. I note that the 20v is not something ever sold here and so they never had to deal with the US's emissions laws. IIRC in Japan they don't care how they make cars clean as long as they're clean, and I don't know what their emissions warranties are like but I bet they are not 60k/100k/150k? miles.

I got an engine from a friend who pulled it out of his (stock ECU) car, or I should say scraped offwhat corroded strips of rust remained, and *he* was the first person to drive it after I got the (aftermarket ECU) wired up and buttoned up and the major settings in the ballpark. Two broadly general tweaks to the acceleration enrichment and he said "Fuck, this thing drives better than when it was in my car." A half hour of driving around tweaking the map and I finally got to drive my own car. When we hit the sweet spot of the tach (where he never went on our tuning and I merely "guessed" at something appropriate) he said "FUCK, I shouldn't have ever sold this to you, it was never this powerful!" No dyno but I'll be visiting one in a couple weeks just for shits and giggles. The stock ECU setup is limited to about 150hp no matter what you try, other people running a standalone get 170-180hp, I'll be happy with whatever numbers come up because they're just numbers to me, what counts is how fast the car is.

So there, now you have two first person anecdotes, your Japanese spec engine and my Japanese made US spec engine after installing an exhaust system not made out of iron and giant corks and got rid of the restrictor-like flapper door thingy.

---

Pete Remner
Cleveland, Ohio

1984 RX-7 (rallycross thing)
1978
Silence is golden, but duct tape is silver.

I saw a Ford 2.3T based dyno where they went from the best combination of Big VAM and ECU that is out there to a stand alone management that the guy developed that is a plug and play then tune affair. They plugged it in, removed the VAM, tuned for an hour or so on the dyno and had gained 20 hp. The higher lines are with nitrous.
http://i63.photobucket.com/albums/h141/gio_momma/dyno.jpg

PS> This is in a 1200 lb buggy.

---

Grant Hughes