Moar pictars for Gene...

...as he refuses to facebook.













How it's made...


Plasma cut a hole in the twinkie


Draw a circle, drill a hole, and cut it out with a reciprocating saw


Test fit the tube


Start the lip with Mr. Hammer


Finish the lip with the hammer.


Test fit inlet tube lip




Cleco it in place


Inlet riveted and epoxied in place


Two sides welded together


Epoxy and rivets cleaned up, seams taped with foil tape



Painted.


Test fit in it's home.

---

Welcome to the cult of JVL drink the koolaid or be banned.

Sorry for the giant, apparently facebook doesn't re-size my new camera phones pictars.

---

Welcome to the cult of JVL drink the koolaid or be banned.

Moar

Looking good.

---

JohnLane

Overkill is consistently more fun

Seems like alot of work for 13th place...

Just kidding, looking good!!! Now get it finished!!!

---

Grant Hughes

Way to go Timmay !! Olympus??



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 07/08/2012 07:10PM by heymagic.

Quote
heymagic
Way to go Timmay !! Olympus??

Depends on funds :/

That was the goal, but I'm not sure at this point.

---

Welcome to the cult of JVL drink the koolaid or be banned.

Looks good buddy

what is that plug type thing in front of the engine cover on the intake side?

--sarge

---

---** To be in compliance with the Anarchy **---
Jorden R. Kleier
Baraboo, Wisconsin, USA
1990 Mazdog Protege 4WD
1973

Observations:
- Top rad hose looks to have a slight kink, maybe needs trimming a little to compensate for the thicker Koyo rad?
- I never trust those springy clip thingies, use proper hose clamps for peace of mind.
- rotors are rusting from siting there :-)
- Looking good, get it on stage and beat the crap out of it!

-Martin.

Quote
SgtRauksauff
what is that plug type thing in front of the engine cover on the intake side?

--sarge

The silver thing?

It's an aluminum base for the hal effect sensor to be bolted to for the cam sensor the ECU needs.

It's basically a 3.5'3.5x1/16" piece of aluminum and then a ~3/4IDx1/8x~5/8" tube welded to it, and then another smaller tube welded next to it that is threaded. The hall effect guy then goes in, and gets screwed on with an aluminum or brass machine screw. Can't remember which I bought. It's not ferric, though.

If you look closely, you can see a few of the black allen head bolts that bolt the plate to the cover. It's sensing the bolt heads on the adjustable cam gears.

---

Welcome to the cult of JVL drink the koolaid or be banned.

Quote
MRWmotorsports
- I never trust those springy clip thingies, use proper hose clamps for peace of mind.

I feel the opposite way. The spring style clamps, if not destroyed by ham-fisted use of the wrong tools to remove them, clamp way loads better than screw clamps. The spring can take up expansion and contraction, a screw clamp can't, so it gradually crushes the hose until the clamp is loose and it leaks.

---

Pete Remner
Cleveland, Ohio

1984 RX-7 (rallycross thing)
1978
Silence is golden, but duct tape is silver.

I agree Pete. I have yet to see a modern car that uses anything but a spring clamp and they are much quicker to remove and re - install than a worm screw type clamp. The spring action of the clamp also seems to more uniformly clamp the hose.

Tim, looks great, it is almost to clean to rally. The wires that heading into the wheel well are those going forward or back into the cockpit? Either way I would make sure they are well protected. The last thing you want is a delaminated tire that destroys the wiring harness. Or reroute them along the frame rail and through the firewall in the engine compartment.

A few rallies will take care of the too clean problem...

The wires are coming from the cabin going to the front. I can snap some pictures of how they are now (inside a nice loom, routed high up in the wheel well). They're going to be protected by a shield of some sort, either urethane mudflap material or UHMW plastic (or whichever acronym that is, I can never remember)


I've gotten the other door on it now, so all it really needs is Dad to finish up some wiring so I can put the heater core/blower stuff back in, the dash and steering column back in, the center console piece back in, and then he needs to wire the ViPEC. Oh, we also need to finish the fuel rail, and then I can make the last 3-4 fuel lines I need. And I need an exhaust. I think that's it.

---

Welcome to the cult of JVL drink the koolaid or be banned.

If you can avoid the wheel well for the wiring harness, do so at ANY cost!

---

First Rally: 2001
Driver (7), Co-Driver (44)
Drivers (16)
Clerk (10), Official (7), Volunteer (4)
Cars Built (1), Engines Built (0) Cages Built (0)
Last Updated, January 4, 2015

Quote
john vanlandingham
Blame is for idiots. losers.