do you have a welded front/rear diff, did you pre-heat?

Good thing I cleaned it after I sprayed it and had my shop ventilation running!

I won't do that again. I even had acetone in the shop too.

It's just a good thing for people to keep in mind. I've seen a few friends use brake cleaner a few times before welding and never knew the danger. It sounds like some nasty stuff.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 09/02/2012 05:33PM by Richard Donovan.

Ok, what I and my rock crawler friend does, make some plates that are notched for the gears, and weld them in, then weld the spiders to the case. Just welding the gears together with no other support can fail. I have broken 2 welded rear diffs in my Volvo. The first one I did like you did, it broke a spider, then took everything else out. The last one snapped the axle off flush with the spider, not the fault of welding, just the amount of stress is on the axles with a spool.

You're just play'n right.... cause I just spent the last 2 hours bolting it back up...... ha ah

Well.... I guess it will only take me an hour to put it back together the next time.
I fully welded the two spider gears parallel to the stub axles on both sides and welded to stubs to the center shaft.

I don't really want to take it apart again.

Or I just start looking for another transmission as a spare and build it better.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 09/03/2012 12:42AM by Richard Donovan.

It kind of makes me want to weld up some cover plates to, so if it does blow up it would hopefully stay inside the diff case.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 09/03/2012 12:47AM by Richard Donovan.

Didn't I say to weld everything to everything? Meaning weld the spiders to the case as well. Though i can't tell what you did actually, because I can't see any pictures. What's up with that?

The power of misinterpretation...this time I'll time myself.

I I hosted them on Facebook which should have worked.
The only parts I did not weld were the spider gears to the case and I did not bridge the gap between the spider gears over the center pin/shaft. I did add 2 passes connecting the stubs to the center pin. The parallel two spider gears to the stubs are full covered.

I have some 0.125 sheet steal for a plate and I will re weld. This time there will be no mistaking that it is fully welded.

Final weld on bench cooling I'll be going over it with all of my slag fighting tools before I put it back together.

Disassembled it in 15 min, cleaning gasket and sealant took about 20 min. Welding 2 hrs. I think assembly will go quickly except for making another rear case gasket will probably be the most time consuming. Old gasket was 0.0125 compressed, new material is 0.015 fresh.....don't even try to comment on that.

Ran out of time, my day is done. 2 weeks until I can get back to the shop to work on it.

Quote
Richard Donovan
Final weld on bench cooling I'll be going over it with all of my slag fighting tools before I put it back together.

Disassembled it in 15 min, cleaning gasket and sealant took about 20 min. Welding 2 hrs. I think assembly will go quickly except for making another rear case gasket will probably be the most time consuming. Old gasket was 0.0125 compressed, new material is 0.015 fresh.....don't even try to comment on that.

I never use a gasket. Just use a thin film of silicone. The oil resistant stuff is best.

Also, the photos still don't appear to me (happens in a lot of threads, must be something due to this site) but I was able to find the url imbedded in the quote. Yes, that's plenty of welding now. That will never break.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 09/03/2012 04:57PM by Doivi Clarkinen.

That's odd, there was a gasket there when I removed it.

So I put back what I found.

Sorry Richard to bring that up, but better now that the thread in 1 month how you destroyed your transmission on the first day out. There is an incredible amount of stress trying to tear that shit apart.