Civic/integra brakes

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john vanlandingham
Josh, who decided to clock the caliper down---right into the rocks?

This something you're going to manufacture??
Isn't there SOME WAY to clock it up?

I have never had trouble with rocks in the front wheels so not sure this is much of an issue anyway but....

Note it is mounted on the forward portion of the upright. So, the caliper sits in the front portion of the front wheels but just a bit below the centerline.

It had to be clocked down by about 17-degrees to bring the caliper in far enough for wheel clearance.

Clocking it up you run into the upright. The bracket should be reversible so it could be run that way if you can make it fit.

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One. Class -- 2WD

www.quantumrallysport.com

http://www.facebook.com/home.php?#/pages/Quantum-Rally-Sport/281129179600?ref=nf

How does this kit rank as far as bang for your buck?
http://www.wilwood.com/BrakeKits/BrakeKitsProdFront.aspx?itemno=140-8695
$562.49 from summit. Its obviously not top of the line, but is it a good middle range option between stock and high end stuff? Or is it weenie stuff for posers?

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Carl S
How does this kit rank as far as bang for your buck?
http://www.wilwood.com/BrakeKits/BrakeKitsProdFront.aspx?itemno=140-8695
$562.49 from summit. Its obviously not top of the line, but is it a good middle range option between stock and high end stuff? Or is it weenie stuff for posers?

Carl we can certainly do something a lot better than that for that price---maybe a smidge more..
Maybe Chris d thinks its too far to drive in here but I have varios discs and calipers here and a dummy hat for jig purposes... this doesn't look too toooooo difficult.

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John Vanlandingham
Sleezattle, WA, USA

Vive le Prole-le-ralliat

www.rallyrace.net/jvab
CALL +1 206 431-9696
Remember! Pacific Standard Time
is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time.

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Carl S
How does this kit rank as far as bang for your buck?
http://www.wilwood.com/BrakeKits/BrakeKitsProdFront.aspx?itemno=140-8695
$562.49 from summit. Its obviously not top of the line, but is it a good middle range option between stock and high end stuff? Or is it weenie stuff for posers?

WELL now, the only good thing about it is that its a brake kit. Its best to keep the stock Honda brakes. That caliper is too flimsy and flexes too much. That will mean its always going to be mushy and inconsistent feel, and because of the way it splays open when you let off the brakes the pistons wont retract all the way causing drag when things get hot. That's the problem with making a fancy wancy looking kit but using a shit caliper. When things get hot (350F+ caliper temps)weird things start to happen.

Best option for the Honda's aside from a higher dollar kit is the S2000 or RSX caliper and disc. Cheap at the junk yard and very very good.

Yeah upon further research that Wilwood kit is junk. I guess it flexes like crazy--you want the forged stuff is what people are saying.

John, yeah the car is up in Bellingham. Next time I'm up there will grab a knuckle, a wheel, see if we can figure it out. Doesn't seem at hard really, I totally agree. And really is same problem regardless of make/model.

It would be really cool if you could like download a 3D model of each caliper and have it rapid prototyped. One could have a stack of me sitting around for fitment tests.

Are you guys all using lug mount, or using as opportunity to convert to radial mount?

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krisdahl
Yeah upon further research that Wilwood kit is junk. I guess it flexes like crazy--you want the forged stuff is what people are saying.

John, yeah the car is up in Bellingham. Next time I'm up there will grab a knuckle, a wheel, see if we can figure it out. Doesn't seem at hard really, I totally agree. And really is same problem regardless of make/model.

It would be really cool if you could like download a 3D model of each caliper and have it rapid prototyped. One could have a stack of me sitting around for fitment tests.

Are you guys all using lug mount, or using as opportunity to convert to radial mount?

Just did a set of radial mount calipers for a guy that just had to have 13" rotors---and 5 on 4 1/2" bolt circle on the hats..
Radial mount shoooooore is nice for fitting..
But twice the cost for a caliper...

How much does the lil ol Honja weigh?

I make 283 x 32 disc kits for Xratties because I can do those dirct onto the knuckle at that size and considering the weight of the car and the big turbo motor its potentially a pretty fast car....and i figured the 32mm thick can help with heat...Volvos I made a deal for 11.75" standard circle track size, again weight and potential speed--if anybody romps on the gas...

Cars under 2500 lbs I think thats a pretty big size, over the line into overkill if you ask me and I am a major proponent of braking as the way to drive fast...

seems there's still people that like 14" wheels and not really sure if 280mm and a caliper can fit safely under a 14"...wheel inner shape is a question...
And thickness, 25mm would probably do pretty good with some margin..

In the end gotta look at and try out stuff and that's hard to do aon a keyboard.

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John Vanlandingham
Sleezattle, WA, USA

Vive le Prole-le-ralliat

www.rallyrace.net/jvab
CALL +1 206 431-9696
Remember! Pacific Standard Time
is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time.

Probably what I should do is actually bring a 15" wheel we use for gravel, a 14" for gravel and then maybe a 15" road race wheel that I know fits the big brakes and get an idea of what really can potentially fit. I think you're right, if memory serves it is all about the inner wheel shape.

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krisdahl
Are you guys all using lug mount, or using as opportunity to convert to radial mount?

If you're making a decent kit from scratch then the obvious thing is to use a radial mount. Its a much stiffer mount and doesn't have a much of the "twisting" moment when the brakes are applied.

The other style, lug mount/Axial mount, is basically the same caliper with a built in bracket, normally for specific apps. But then people got in a habit of using them for other apps. Now the question is why would someone build something from scratch and put a bracket on another bracket? A bracket on top of another bracket only makes things more flimsy and less structurally sound. That being said some caliper manufacturers charge less for these units.

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krisdahl
... if memory serves it is all about the inner wheel shape.

Its the shape of the spokes as they connect to the barrel. If they have a large radius curve then might hit the caliper or need more spacing.

Hi guys!! I see you all talking about creating the hats and brackets really easy.... well we don't have a shop here in Puerto Rico that can make it for me.... I have a civic 95 EG 4x100 and I'm in desperate need on help for a decent road race brake kit.... something like the 300mmx32mm with a 4 piston caliper... my budget is around $1500 .... can any of you guys please help me with this? I dont have the knowledge nor the tools to prepare a hat and a bracket...

My email is alcrudojr@autoplazapr.com, alcrudojr@gmail.com

Is 1950lbs with driver, 16x9 +20 wheels w/ 245/45 hoosiers

Thanks in advance...

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Alcrudojr
Hi guys!! I see you all talking about creating the hats and brackets really easy.... well we don't have a shop here in Puerto Rico that can make it for me.... I have a civic 95 EG 4x100 and I'm in desperate need on help for a decent road race brake kit.... something like the 300mmx32mm with a 4 piston caliper... my budget is around $1500 .... can any of you guys please help me with this? I dont have the knowledge nor the tools to prepare a hat and a bracket...

My email is alcrudojr@autoplazapr.com, alcrudojr@gmail.com

Is 1950lbs with driver, 16x9 +20 wheels w/ 245/45 hoosiers

Thanks in advance...

write me at janvanvurpa (at) gmail....already making hats and kits for a couple of other cars and with some local guys with Hondas we can probably certainly make you something...but you cannot be in a big rush... What's your full name? We have a rule on this forum requiring full names so we know who we're talking to....

What sort of speeds to you really reach?

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John Vanlandingham
Sleezattle, WA, USA

Vive le Prole-le-ralliat

www.rallyrace.net/jvab
CALL +1 206 431-9696
Remember! Pacific Standard Time
is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time.

Oh okk sorry!! My name is Miguel Alcrudo from Puerto Rico...

for the speed, the first couple of races should be making +-135mph for the end of the season -+145....

For my time frame I would be needing them for mid may at the latest since the next race will be MAY 23-24

Thanks for your reply

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Alcrudojr
Oh okk sorry!! My name is Miguel Alcrudo from Puerto Rico...

for the speed, the first couple of races should be making +-135mph for the end of the season -+145....

For my time frame I would be needing them for mid may at the latest since the next race will be MAY 23-24

Thanks for your reply

OK let's nail down exactly what year and model because while i make nice brake kits, I do European cars, mostly RWD things and I am not a Honda-pervert.. They ALL look exactly the same to me..
We need to see if other guys locally---see that is why we put the name and location in the side bar thing so we know who is who and wheer they are.. so if we find theres somebody local with the SAME stuff we have a way to check fitment easily...
OK

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John Vanlandingham
Sleezattle, WA, USA

Vive le Prole-le-ralliat

www.rallyrace.net/jvab
CALL +1 206 431-9696
Remember! Pacific Standard Time
is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time.

Quote
Cosworth
The only difference is I used a 300mm x 20mm disc for gravel to save on weight. It also fits the typical late model 300x32mm disc but that hasn't been needed yet because the 20mm has been enough so far.

So how do you decide what is best thickness? I was looking and it's 1.8 kg difference between a 295X32 AP J hook and 295X25.4. I was surprised it is that much difference though! So it's a tradeoff between weight and heat so maybe depends more on weight of car for set diameter of a rotor?

Float in disc or float in hat?

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Grant Hughes

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NoCoast

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Cosworth
The only difference is I used a 300mm x 20mm disc for gravel to save on weight. It also fits the typical late model 300x32mm disc but that hasn't been needed yet because the 20mm has been enough so far.

So how do you decide what is best thickness? I was looking and it's 1.8 kg difference between a 295X32 AP J hook and 295X25.4. I was surprised it is that much difference though! So it's a tradeoff between weight and heat so maybe depends more on weight of car for set diameter of a rotor?

Float in disc or float in hat?

The diameter is set based on several different things, brake torque requirements and packaging constraints. Now thickness is where the trade off for thermal capacity is at, if you don't need that much, go thinner for lighter weight and even more important lower moment of inertia (think of a light weight flywheel).

The decision on the thickness is from experience. Normally you can calculate the decal G's and the kinetic energy produced MV^2 and then knowing the type of racing and track/surface and gauge the requirements.

As for float in disc or hat, got with float in hat. That way you're not stuck to the $350+ AP discs and bobbins. (well brembo has it own oval deal too) You can make a float in have with any disc with a round hole. Theres more pro's and cons but none of those pertain to our miniscule amateur world.

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Cosworth
As for float in disc or hat, got with float in hat. That way you're not stuck to the $350+ AP discs and bobbins. (well brembo has it own oval deal too) You can make a float in have with any disc with a round hole. Theres more pro's and cons but none of those pertain to our miniscule amateur world.

What kind of bobbin? Have one you recommend? Looking at options and some stuff listed as high a ~$8 per bobbin!

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Grant Hughes