LDR XR Update

M, hehe....she is not wearing a Nomex bikini! I believe that's the VP girl. Can't be sure....

We're planning on redoing most of the wiring in the car anyway, but so far have found it easy to work around.

My next pics will most likely be of a melted wiring harness! ;-)

Anyone have a Subra diff for sale?

Cheers! John

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http://www.lastditchracing.com
http://www.triplecaution.us

I can't even figure out what this is.
http://www.rallyanarchy.com/phorum/file.php?5,file=578
Last pic from the second pic post.
All these make me feel like a hack.

I did a bit of welding on the feet plate for the cage. Most work in the garage today though was on Mike Rose's Legacy turbo cage.

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Grant Hughes

Grant, that is the inside of the driver's side sill. We ran new strips of metal on the horizontal and vertical surfaces to strengthen things up. We had some mild rot and decided to cut it away and put some fresh metal in/on.

We;re not really worrying about the weight of the car, although we are trying to keep the weight low. It's going to be a tank when we're done! ;-)

Cheers! John

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http://www.lastditchracing.com
http://www.triplecaution.us

And you expect me to believe that is an east coast car? Why isn't half of it orange??!?!?!

You COULD pull the loom through the fuse block hole, really isn't that tricky. Overall looks pretty nice!

It was surprising that it had so LITTLE rust. It was really the reason I decided to take it on.

We could pull the loom, but then my welder wouldn't have anything to bitch about! ;-)

Cheers! John

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http://www.lastditchracing.com
http://www.triplecaution.us

Hey, there were questions in this thread?

John Cassidy Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> 1.) More seam welding inside the car. As with
> all cars that use the seam goo, we're having
> trouble welding some seams that we can't get all
> the goo out of. I'm thinkingn of buying a needle
> scaler from Harbor Freight to see if that will get
> into the small areas. Anyone have some
> suggestions for the difficult seams?

If you can't scrape it, I don't think a pin scaler is gonna be of much use. I'd try and boil the crap out with a torch, then wipe and weld. Same thing goes for the back side of some of those thin joints!

> Any benefit to a dual plug, roller cam head from a
> Ranger on our turbo beasties. I've read there are
> differences between early and later dual plug
> heads. I've read the dual plug heads don't flow
> as well as the turbo heads, but dual plugs are
> sexay! ;-)


Putting a dual plug head on would be pointless. Money/time would be MUCH better spent porting a stock turbo head, same for your exhaust manifold (you DO have an E6 casting, don'tcha?). Try and find a big VAM and PE series computer from a thunderbird if you're bored.


> Cams!? Which one. Esslinger, stock, Ford
> motorsport? What's the hot setup?

Stock seems to go a long way, people with ranger rollers have put down big #'s as well. Motorsport A237 or whatever should be decent as well - NOT a place to spend money I reckon.


> Oil pump. Any mods necessary or does the stock
> one flow fine?


The stock TURBO oil pump flows big amounts, the stock NA pump sucks hardcore. Make sure nobody has replaced it with the incorrect one over time. If you're planning on running an oil cooler, you may want to think about a hi-volume version, but otherwise leave it stock.


> Oil pan. Anyone baffle theirs to prevent slosh?

Most I've seen done is a windage tray from someone like racer walsh or esslinger.

Thanks for the replies Paddy! I was thinking about the Ranger cam as they seem to be cheap. Seems like the whole DP heads with roller cams can be had for cheap.

My exhaust manifold is cracked. Was thinkingn about a tubular exhaust manifold. Not sure which one yet.

Will be running a cooler, but I'm sure the stock pump will flow enough.

We're going to run the Megaquirt with the EDIS setup and get rid of the distributor.

We've been breathing so many toxic fumes lately, I was hoping not to create any more smoke, but burning and scraping the crap out of the seams may be the only way.

Thanks! John

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http://www.lastditchracing.com
http://www.triplecaution.us

John Cassidy Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Thanks for the replies Paddy! I was thinking
> about the Ranger cam as they seem to be cheap.
> Seems like the whole DP heads with roller cams can
> be had for cheap.

Fuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuck.
Less lift and even less duration than the stock XR cam.
Well lots of limpwristerd street boys with automatics and keyboard engine builders like it so it must be good for a ral;ly cam.
>
> My exhaust manifold is cracked. Was thinkingn
> about a tubular exhaust manifold. Not sure which
> one yet.
E6 iron is good enough, you want the turbine housing and I'm going pack on and send it.
>
> Will be running a cooler, but I'm sure the stock
> pump will flow enough.
>
> We're going to run the Megaquirt with the EDIS
> setup and get rid of the distributor.
>
> We've been breathing so many toxic fumes lately, I
> was hoping not to create any more smoke, but
> burning and scraping the crap out of the seams may
> be the only way.

ONLY???
Been doing liquid N since 1998, why not try it. Clean and ready to weld.
>
> Thanks! John
>
>
>

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John Vanlandingham
Sleezattle, WA, USA

Vive le Prole-le-ralliat

www.rallyrace.net/jvab
CALL +1 206 431-9696
Remember! Pacific Standard Time
is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time.

John, I would like a housing! :-) We're planning on using liquid nitrogen, but want to get the car on the rotisserie before we do so that we can get the car turned on its side for the tranny tunnel areas.

So the stock cam/head is better than the roller/ranger job. I get it.

BUT, there must be something else to do to the head other than putting it back on!? ;-)

Cheers! John

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http://www.lastditchracing.com
http://www.triplecaution.us

John Cassidy Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> BUT, there must be something else to do to the
> head other than putting it back on!? ;-)


Yes, you can port the shit out of it. See here:

http://www.merkurencyclopedia.com/

for more details (and some other insights into a lot of the "performance" mods which are popular)

PAddy Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> John Cassidy Wrote:
> --------------------------------------------------
> -----
> > BUT, there must be something else to do to
> the
> > head other than putting it back on!? ;-)
>
>
> Yes, you can port the shit out of it. See here:
>
>
>
> for more details (and some other insights into a
> lot of the "performance" mods which are popular)

Paddy, popular yes but enlarging a port means the gas velovity in the port slows down. Bad.

John I was mentioning your thing to another long term Ford guy withj years of screwing with and building these 2300s and I mentioned valve springs and he came back with a YES!!! absolutely Check Valve spring pressure and yes your oil pump
is good and right sized if it checks out.
Itching to do something?
Rod bolts, (from me) deck the block and head and get a Cometic head gasket (from me).

You better think about a pressureplate and a decent disc.

AND MOTOR MOUNTS.

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John Vanlandingham
Sleezattle, WA, USA

Vive le Prole-le-ralliat

www.rallyrace.net/jvab
CALL +1 206 431-9696
Remember! Pacific Standard Time
is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time.

I'm assuming the springs should be within spec?

In order to do the motor mounts, do I need my tranny for spacing or will someone give measurements as to where it needs to be?

Cheers! John

---

http://www.lastditchracing.com
http://www.triplecaution.us

John Cassidy Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> I'm assuming the springs should be within spec?

It seems the liklihood the valvesprings are good is somewhat slim.
>
> In order to do the motor mounts, do I need my
> tranny for spacing or will someone give
> measurements as to where it needs to be?

Yeah you want some trannie in place to establish the fore and aft position and the height and then you take off one side's alloy arm and rubber cusion (having blocked up the motor) on with the soooper bitching arm, THEN assemble the sheetmetal around it, and zap the sheetmetal onto the chassirail and inner fender well.
>
> Cheers! John
>
>
>

---

John Vanlandingham
Sleezattle, WA, USA

Vive le Prole-le-ralliat

www.rallyrace.net/jvab
CALL +1 206 431-9696
Remember! Pacific Standard Time
is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time.

Man, I guess I need to hunt for a tranny. Might as well get what I need now.

I'm looking for a T-5 WC out of a Camaro? If I know the year, I can get right one it.

Cheers! John

---

http://www.lastditchracing.com
http://www.triplecaution.us

John Cassidy Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Man, I guess I need to hunt for a tranny. Might
> as well get what I need now.
>
> I'm looking for a T-5 WC out of a Camaro? If I
> know the year, I can get right one it.
>
> Cheers! John

Yep get cracking, and tell me what tunnel you have in the car, take a piccie of the trans crossmemmber and post it of send it.

All years V8 have the ratios and the gearshift in the right place, but of course they have different diameter and splines on each end so try and get the output yoke at the same time and save some dough..
The mate up to the bellhousing of of course different. (Nothing a little tig welding counldn't cure easier than the shifter and ratios bering wrong! In other words watch OUT for 2,3 Tbird, or Mooostang turbo and no turbo boxes, and nearly all V8 post 86 were all the 3.36 first.)

As an alternate, you could contact Hanlon Engineering in PA and have him assemble you a hybrid trans with the Ford case and the right input shaft, the 2.95 gearset and a Camaro tailshaft housing. He's a good guy and will talk to you if you call near 5 in the afternoon.
>
>
>

---

John Vanlandingham
Sleezattle, WA, USA

Vive le Prole-le-ralliat

www.rallyrace.net/jvab
CALL +1 206 431-9696
Remember! Pacific Standard Time
is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time.