22R Toyota Turbo pistons?

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tdrrally
john you are right not enough information, but its fun to talk theory

Meh....I'm too busy to just talk theory..
I reckon we don't have to discover any theories, our major problem is finding affordable ways to pull off what we know is good.

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my old starion is mark bowers car now

Oh, good. It now has JVAB Sooper Bitchin Suspenders both front and rear and he said it's a amazing transformation how well it works now...
Basic car is not bad and not bad is pretty damn good.
Interstingly enough the heads on those old thANGS ARE SO CLOSE TO THE tOILETTA HEAD THAT IT HAIN'T FUNNY.

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i found an xrtatty to be as quick as a non i/c starion

Well stock to stock...I think part of it is the Starions, while heavier, are geared decently shorter, like 3.64 for Xratty and 4.27 for Starion..That's enough to be quite noticeable.

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i still would like to build a sierra 4wd, or an xr8

As a 2 wheel drive car, the 2300 is more than enough.
4x4, its fursure fun but I'm coverting mine back to 2wd for the gearing advantages of the T5 and short axle (4.3)

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all i'm saying is vintage racing is a very fun sport.

Can be but its also a lot of fiddling, and I don't have time to fiddle.

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John Vanlandingham
Sleezattle, WA, USA

Vive le Prole-le-ralliat

www.rallyrace.net/jvab
CALL +1 206 431-9696
Remember! Pacific Standard Time
is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time.

i will agree with that, its all what you'r out for i guess

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I would rather drive a slow car fast as a fast car slow!
first rule of cars: get what makes you happy, your the one paying for it!

John, he is not a cheap bastard, he did spend money on a nice manifold, in the $700 range. He is currently building a stock 22RET, with a nice intercooler, and fuel control to be determined soon. Stock Turbo head, Stock replacement Turbo pistons, nothing crazy. He just wants reliable, and a bit more poop that his stock 22RE.

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john vanlandingham

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phlat65
He borrowed my Ford 2.3T Volvo wagon a few times, and could not believe he could accel from 60-80 in 5th, climbing a hill, at 1/2 throttle.

Well the tear-down guy at Foster's (the auto machine shop I've known for 28 years) his in-laws had one of these things 22RET and the T had to stand for Turd. After helping him set the ignition timing, THEN the cam timing correct and actually seeing if the turbine shaft was moving, ie not seized and made sure that at least everything was at a good "Stage Zero", I concluded it was just a massive pile of shit, and slower than fawk..

He was thrilled at the improvement

Then he drove my beater Xratty...

Like a number of other Japonaise junk, I think they purposely made them make no power, but mainly so they could put a badge on the back that reads "TURBO"

Sean, what does you guy want?
He want it to go as good as a stockish Xratty?

Is he really a cheap bastid? Does he want the thing to work for 3 months? 7 mo?
1 year?

stock cast pistons and a $700 manifold?
Oi.
Have at it.

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John Vanlandingham
Sleezattle, WA, USA

Vive le Prole-le-ralliat

www.rallyrace.net/jvab
CALL +1 206 431-9696
Remember! Pacific Standard Time
is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time.

Those are the pistons he already purchased, but was asking me what I would do, and I recomended a forged piston for security.

PM me anout that Haltech, price and such, and I will pass the info.

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aj_johnson

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Ascona73

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tdrrally
with an i/c go for it

there was a supercharger kit for that truck at one point

Still is, made by Camden superchargers. I had this kit on my own truck.

http://www.camdensuperchargers.com/

Dealers:

http://www.lcengineering.com/

http://www.pulleyboys.com/store/home.php?cat=72

http://www.lceperformance.com/Street-Turbo-Piston-Set-w-Rings-22RET-85-95-STD-p/1014310.htm

Crap LC engineering has the 22ret piston and ring sets for 160 bux. Any reason you need to have forged pistons? Factory Rte pistons were cast . was this the 22RE or the 22R?

If he wants I've got an old haltech fuel only ecu, wiring harness, manual and softwere that would be perfect for a budget turbo build. I even have some flow matched 300cc injectors for the experience.

Why the issue John? there is not much out there for turbo manifolds, and he wants reliable, that is why we are asking about better pistons. I did not say he was running the cast pistons...

Check out the manifold though, would be sweet if they did a ford 2.3.

http://www.steedspeed.com/22rte_internal_wastegate_turbo_manifold

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john vanlandingham
stock cast pistons and a $700 manifold?
Oi.
Have at it.

Well, they make a header for MY dream engine in a Yoda truck:

http://www.steedspeed.com/cummins_4bt_turbo_header

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Andrew Steere
Lyndeborough, NH
KB1PJY

Jeebus those guys do some really nice work!

Yeah Gene, the manifolds are CNC'd in 2 halfs, then welded together. Seems like you could get some seriously smooth transitions in there with that process

They have some good pics in the E36 BMW manifold of the process. Pretty wild...

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Grant Hughes

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Ascona73
Like John said the chamber design and bore size are not ideal for forced induction. I ran 6 psi boost with the stock 9.4:1 compression ratio on 93 octane with no issues.

I later bumped the boost to 9 psi (non intercooled) and added water injection. Ran out of water one day and shattered #4 piston's ring lands.

Put in the 7.8:1 turbo pistons and it was reliable after that, but it felt faster with the low boost/ high compression setup. Certainly smoked the tires a lot easier...

Heya Bob, How are things? I can relate on the higher compression: we had a true 7.6 Cr in the Starion with the original 'not really stock' showroom stock pistons. Got some factory ones and the true CR dropped to 7.2 (despite the shop manual claim of 8.1); felt like the bottom end torque was all gone. JLV helped me get some flat top forged and the true CR is now 8.2: whole new engine, bottom end torque like you would not believe. Now running up to 15 psi boost on the later factory ECM, and the engine is super; REALLY good for rally use; bottom end like an older 10:1 NA engine, and the turbo top end. Geez, I gotta get that thing going again....

hi compression low boost, quick spooling and low end too

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I would rather drive a slow car fast as a fast car slow!
first rule of cars: get what makes you happy, your the one paying for it!

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tdrrally
hi compression low boost, quick spooling and low end too

sounds like a diesel.

But for the 10,000th time to forumers everywhere in the world repeating that: with never any consideration into bore size, flame front propagation, dynamic compression or any reference to intake closing ABDC which has major affect on "compression ratio"....

Fine on a motor with small bore, this first part, like whatever!
OoooHignH compression! Klow boost!! ooooh

But from a serious sense;
what the hell with the hassel of turbocharging, weight, cost, mapping, packaging all that shit, just to have "low boost"? "High" compression? What's high? low boost? what's low?
Bullshit.
And in a rally car where the mere presence of a turbo even on a totally stock 100+ mile beater guarantees even those just looking melt like this

and must be in the tottering evil empire only driven by "experienced" drivers
So all that pain in the ass shit and and the advice is "Hi! Compression" are forced to remain low boost..

That's real brilliant thinking ahead, and just wonderful advice..

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John Vanlandingham
Sleezattle, WA, USA

Vive le Prole-le-ralliat

www.rallyrace.net/jvab
CALL +1 206 431-9696
Remember! Pacific Standard Time
is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time.

i'm talking 9-10:1

but i like a non turbo rally car (groupe 4)

i do like groupe D rally on the other hand

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I would rather drive a slow car fast as a fast car slow!
first rule of cars: get what makes you happy, your the one paying for it!



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 08/23/2012 12:12PM by tdrrally.

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tdrrally
i'm talking 9-10:1

but i like a non turbo rally car (groupe 4)

i do like groupe D rally on the other hand

On a motor with a 90mm or larger bore, that's extremely high, even 9:1 especially for home built , crap head design motors...

have you noticed that nearly all modern motors have been going down in bore and nearly any 2,0 you can imagine in the last 20 or so years are down around 81.5 to 86mm except one or two (EJ20 and Duratec at 87mm?)

But look up the Duratec 87 x 83 approx for street car...But in the turbocharged motors for WRC, they ran 85mm bore and about 87 stroke...
Smaller bore tolerates higher comp or higher comp and lots of boost.
But they also have a nice head with a nice combustion chamber..

And what are you talking about Group(e)4?
Normal aspirated 2wd rally cars are generally in North America called "Group 2"...

You trollin?

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John Vanlandingham
Sleezattle, WA, USA

Vive le Prole-le-ralliat

www.rallyrace.net/jvab
CALL +1 206 431-9696
Remember! Pacific Standard Time
is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time.