Patrick Darrow Senior Moderator Location: Portland OR Join Date: 12/30/2006 Age: Midlife Crisis Posts: 379 Rally Car: Swedish John Deere |
Worked a bit again last night. We had been slacking at cleaning up the shop so we spent a good chunk of time getting things back in shape. It was certainly needed. Then we righted the car, drilled a larger hole through the pan-hard mount, and hung the axle back under it.
Things are looking good. We have ample clearance to the pan-hard rod, links are centered in the boxes and the pinion angle looks to be close as well. We are right at 4" of up travel to the bottom of the bump-stops on the chassis. Me likey...do you??? I am also getting way antsy waiting for my ride in Al's Swedish fish! Is it Wednesday yet??? Zap zap my ass... |
Sean Medcroft Professional Moderator Location: Edmonds, Washington Join Date: 02/12/2009 Age: Possibly Wise Posts: 1,802 Rally Car: Building a Merkur |
Patrick Darrow Senior Moderator Location: Portland OR Join Date: 12/30/2006 Age: Midlife Crisis Posts: 379 Rally Car: Swedish John Deere |
Jon Rood Ultra Moderator Location: Phoenix, AZ Join Date: 10/19/2010 Age: Possibly Wise Posts: 154 Rally Car: '94 Escort GT (sold) |
Blake Lind Godlike Moderator Location: Hillsboro Oregon Join Date: 06/09/2009 Age: Midlife Crisis Posts: 233 Rally Car: orange AE86 |
Jon Rood Ultra Moderator Location: Phoenix, AZ Join Date: 10/19/2010 Age: Possibly Wise Posts: 154 Rally Car: '94 Escort GT (sold) |
Patrick Darrow Senior Moderator Location: Portland OR Join Date: 12/30/2006 Age: Midlife Crisis Posts: 379 Rally Car: Swedish John Deere |
So we jumped back on this horse last night. Feels like we made some progress but then agian cutting huge holes in the car tends to do that. The pictures came out shitty, but the work itself is looking pretty good.
Nearly tucking rim at full compression. still lots of clearance underneath and in the boxes. 
Yeah, tubbing was not an option here. 
We started off by drilling a couple of holes with the hole saw, then when we felt we had the placement figured out we slit the wheel wells and slid the boxes in. then traced the arc on the floor. 
Now through the floor and resting on the bottom of the chassis rail. Getting closer to their final height. We looked closely at placement of the shock to remove as little of the chassis rail as possible but it was just unavoidable. 
Bit more fitting then we'll start tacking things in place. Press On... Zap zap my ass... |
Sean Medcroft Professional Moderator Location: Edmonds, Washington Join Date: 02/12/2009 Age: Possibly Wise Posts: 1,802 Rally Car: Building a Merkur |
Patrick Darrow Senior Moderator Location: Portland OR Join Date: 12/30/2006 Age: Midlife Crisis Posts: 379 Rally Car: Swedish John Deere |
So anybody got a clue as to why the swedes felt the need to make these things 70mm more narrow in the rear? The last setup up the car was running was also with 25mm trax spacers in the front to clear the RX7 calipers, meaning my front track was 4 3/4" wider than the rear..
We knew of this when we started and is one of the reasons we have decided to tub the rear fender wells. My question is how close to even should I look at getting this thing? Handling wise, square is best, yes? I need to keep a small spacer up front to clear the rx7 brakes, 5-10mm, and wheel spacers will now be needed in the rear, to clear the springs. If i move the 25mm spacers to the rear, and go with the 5mm spacers up front that would give me 144 cm of track in the front and 141 in the rear, or 30mm more narrow in the rear. Disclaimer: I am aware that spacers on a rally car is a terrible idea but it is just the reality of it at the moment. These are things that we can look to improve upon in the future, when the car is once again alive. A toyota rear will take care of the spacers in the back and either dedicated rally wheels, or yet another brake setup up front and those can take a hike as well. Zap zap my ass... |
Sean Medcroft Professional Moderator Location: Edmonds, Washington Join Date: 02/12/2009 Age: Possibly Wise Posts: 1,802 Rally Car: Building a Merkur |
Patrick Darrow Senior Moderator Location: Portland OR Join Date: 12/30/2006 Age: Midlife Crisis Posts: 379 Rally Car: Swedish John Deere |
Sean Medcroft Professional Moderator Location: Edmonds, Washington Join Date: 02/12/2009 Age: Possibly Wise Posts: 1,802 Rally Car: Building a Merkur |
Grant Hughes Godlike Moderator Location: Whitefish, MT Join Date: 01/11/2006 Age: Midlife Crisis Posts: 6,818 Rally Car: BMW |
John Vanlandingham Junior Moderator Location: Ford Asylum, Sleezattle, WA Join Date: 12/20/2005 Age: Fossilized Posts: 14,152 Rally Car: Saab 96 V4 |
Pat, sent the sheetmetal bits for the chassirail mounts.
And included this drawing: 
should be fairly clear, or just ask. Width is whatever bush you use. i like the ford bush and I use an ordinary Ford SOHC 2300 headbolt which is M12 x 1.75 x just right. Now if your out in the Rally Spare Parts Storage Depots that some cynical bastids call "junk yards" and grabbing a couple of those, see if you see any "real" Saab 900s. holding on each lower front a arm are 5 really nice M12 nuts: full height, integral washer, nylock...grab 'em John Vanlandingham Sleezattle, WA, USA Vive le Prole-le-ralliat www.rallyrace.net/jvab CALL +1 206 431-9696 Remember! Pacific Standard Time is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time. |
Blake Lind Godlike Moderator Location: Hillsboro Oregon Join Date: 06/09/2009 Age: Midlife Crisis Posts: 233 Rally Car: orange AE86 |
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