JVAB for RS 2.5

Thanks for those pics Kevin. This is one of the few times there isn't a Sube at the shop for something....

Even if someone went thru the trouble to swap those hubs the loading offset would still be the same, just in another place. Probably be easier to relocate the tops but the loading is still way off from the center of the wheel. That prolly is what caused the twist in the ears after the strut froze or whatever. Looking at the pic reminded me I have seen those hubs bend..I think Moro changed one here a couple years ago actually..between Olympus and OT. Need to find a hub that aligns the strut thru the center of the axle or do a bit of bracket building. Maybe a Nissan part or some such?

What is the rate of that rear spring supposed to be?

Swapping the rear spindles isn't an option..

Not only are the spindles offset and angled, but strut towers in the chassis are as well. Swap them left to right, and you are going to have more problems.

There is nothing wrong with the geometry, to date i have not bent a rear insert on the JVAB stuff, but over time my ears have "creeped" a little bit, big deal 16 events on them...IMHO they are on borrowed time anyways.

Mine could be a special case. I did weld the ears on myself, and cut/trimmed them significantly to get my camber etc correct. I probably spent 6-8 hrs getting mine set-up the way i wanted. Maybe this is the difference. John, possible that i can take a cardboard template, and send you a 1:1 scale PDF file you could use. It may also cure some of the camber problems you guys are having in the rears. I get -0.5 to -1.0 on mine without an issue, just using the slots in the top hole. No camber bolts etc.

We've definitely bent rear Subaru uprights before. I know Mark has bent maybe two.

That photo of Cline is current so it must of been talked about but he never did it. It was just a thought any who.

It sounds like he just needs some different springs and maybe a little higher ride height if he knows an event will be super rough.

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heymagic
Thanks for those pics Kevin. This is one of the few times there isn't a Sube at the shop for something....

Even if someone went thru the trouble to swap those hubs the loading offset would still be the same, just in another place. Probably be easier to relocate the tops but the loading is still way off from the center of the wheel. That prolly is what caused the twist in the ears after the strut froze or whatever. Looking at the pic reminded me I have seen those hubs bend..I think Moro changed one here a couple years ago actually..between Olympus and OT. Need to find a hub that aligns the strut thru the center of the axle or do a bit of bracket building. Maybe a Nissan part or some such?

What is the rate of that rear spring supposed to be?

Yeah that offset sucks and wouldn't be surprised the uprights bend. Dave Clark said something about that once---a long time ago. maybe a Pat Richard story---that guy could bend a ball bearing.

Spring is 200 lbs x 14" Might be smrat to go to 16" to eliminate any chance of coil bind---the way I'm doing Subie---and other extra long units---now is with longer tube and straight ears rather than the earlier ears that swoop down (and farther from support.) and the longer units get longer threads.

---

John Vanlandingham
Sleezattle, WA, USA

Vive le Prole-le-ralliat

www.rallyrace.net/jvab
CALL +1 206 431-9696
Remember! Pacific Standard Time
is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time.

If you guys have slack in your setup, you're not getting the most out of your droop travel.

We ran into an issue with the handling on the Evo this summer on fancypants AST dampers. The rears were supplied with tenders and the fronts weren't. They were from a cone dodger and had uber stiff rates (800f/1000r). Knowing that I wasn't going to be running 285 width Hoosier A6s, I knew I'd need to drop the spring rates down a bit. We settled on 600f/800r, still with helpers just in the rears.

The problem we had is that the car would start to take a set when you initiated the corner, and then the front end would wash out. We think that what was happening was that as the car leaned, the inside front tire wasn't being pushed into the ground (Evo = lots of body roll), so that all of a sudden that other front tire wasn't supplying any grip and boom...instant understeer.

With no other springs to try, we raised the perches up until the spring was just being held in place. That added almost 2" to the car's ride height, but it seemed to help fix the problem. Moral of the story - keep those tires pressed onto the ground as much as you can!

FWIW, the Ohlins on the Evo come with helpers all the way round & they're the beefier ones with actual spring rates, not something that's 5-10# or so. On the BMW with the new rear springs I put on there, I got the ride height I wanted without any helpers, but I am running the 10# ones up front...wondering if the stiffer ones might be a good idea...but I haven't experienced any issues with the fronts so far, so will probably leave it alone for now.

Dave

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DaveK
so will probably leave it alone for now.

It was almost believable until that statement. Obviously someone's hacked Dave's account.

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NoCoast

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DaveK
so will probably leave it alone for now.

It was almost believable until that statement. Obviously someone's hacked Dave's account.

Don't get ahead of yourself. I still have to pull the head, make mudflaps, figure out rally odo, make a cat-pipe, figure out lighting, etc...before it rolls again. I'm happy with the suspension though.

Dave

This one's quite a read.. Been away for too way too long.

John, what diameter springs are you using?

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modernbeat
John, what diameter springs are you using?

2.5" I.D.

And got the message too will reply, but need to eat dinner.

---

John Vanlandingham
Sleezattle, WA, USA

Vive le Prole-le-ralliat

www.rallyrace.net/jvab
CALL +1 206 431-9696
Remember! Pacific Standard Time
is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time.

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A1337STI
I completely agree with Gene about the tires and where to spend your budget.

I think it was Either A fluke / bad luck OR it was due to the 4 weeks when i first got the coil overs. where the rear was too high and i leveled it out by dropping the spring perches, and created a situation where the last inch of droop was unsprung. This was quickly sorted out by shortening the rear tubes, but Its possible to maybe have put a slight bend during that...

seems unlikely though, as i ran 2 rallies, 4 rally crosses and 5K of driving it around inbetween first getting them, and Gorman.

I am completely confused as what swapping a left and right rear ear would accomplish. Guessing it changes the geometry slightly?

I agree with Gene, try and keep all your costs down so you can have new tires.
I now have a full set of stock coilovers , but I'm thinking about getting 1 spare JVAB coilover (and eventually two) Or maybe i should get 1 extra insert (dampened for the front) , and a front and rear tube ? so if i break a front i'm back to 100%, if i break a rear my dampening will be off, but spring rate and ride height will be ok...

is that a good plan or a dumb plan? I'm kinda thinking the failure rate is low enough I'm better off using stockers for backups and maybe getting more new tires ... (along with a tow setup + trailer) hmmf

Alex,

You should always have at least _one_ spare strut per end of the car in your parts pile.. Just in case.

Thanks Barrett,

Yeah a spare per end of car is on my 2 do list. I'll probably end up with OverKill and have 6 spares, .. 2 JVABs and 4 Stockers .. depending on what type of tow vehicle i end up getting before 2012 starts up I'll see if i can fit all of them. I have a fair amount of spares of things i can actually change myself. (suspension parts)

i need new bushings super bad... heh

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john vanlandingham

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modernbeat
John, what diameter springs are you using?

2.5" I.D.

And got the message too will reply, but need to eat dinner.

John, I need some measurements from your struts for GC/GD Subarus.

I need the diameters and lengths that are called out in this photo.



Help me out if you can. I need to get some parts made up and don't have the struts available.

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modernbeat

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john vanlandingham

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modernbeat
John, what diameter springs are you using?

2.5" I.D.

And got the message too will reply, but need to eat dinner.

John, I need some measurements from your struts for GC/GD Subarus.

I need the diameters and lengths that are called out in this photo.




Oh how to do this clearly/

On the left where they have O24,2--24,7, mine are 19,92.

That first bit where they have some 4,5 and the L below not called out you have a straight shoulder 16,0 to 16,1mm high.

Moving up to next diameter they have 14, you have 14,9 to 14,94mm (ID of bearing is 15mm) and that is 17mm high.
The threads are M12 x 1.75 and are 22.5mm high

Where they show 40,5 your dims are 33mm

Es claro, muchachito?
Help me out if you can. I need to get some parts made up and don't have the struts available.

---

John Vanlandingham
Sleezattle, WA, USA

Vive le Prole-le-ralliat

www.rallyrace.net/jvab
CALL +1 206 431-9696
Remember! Pacific Standard Time
is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time.