Back at it again... Evo IX SPGT Build

I've run both yoko A035's and DMACK grippa 3's in 14" sizes and prefer the DMACKS. The yoko pattern rounds the shoulder blocks pretty quick where the DMACK seems to have worn better with the classic M4 pattern. Also, check the dates on any yoko's if you get them. Last year it seemd that everyone getting the 14" yoko's were getting ones that had 2008 stamps on them, this quickly showed up as small cracks at the base of the tread block due to age/storage. DMACKs seem to be a little fresher.

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-KTurner
Stomp down on the exhilarator and hold on to the wheel.

I love this forum board, awesome replies!

Andrew, Adam, Chris, and Kevin thank you so much for the input. It looks like Dmack is the tire to run.

Gene I contacted ACP and am waiting for his reply, I had a lot of questions! Thanks again!

I was thinking earlier about under body protection in regards to the rear suspension components. I know the rear arms are pretty soft and will bend from gravel spray, what do people run for protection? Looking at most cars they seem to run a thin sheet of plastic. I'm not sure what materials would work well? UHMW? I'm also looking for some trick ways to mount the sheets to the control arms. I've seen some people just use large zip ties, but I would like something a bit cleaner. I think the nicest looking installation used a U bracket with a quick release pin up top, but I do not know how well that works in reality.

On that same note what do people do for the front arms? On my old galant we did nothing, and payed the price We would at least have to box the arms, or they would be beat after two rallies. And even then they wouldn't last longer than five.

Does anyone here have experience in laying up carbon/kevlar skid plates?

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Sowa Motorsports
#274 M.Rodzinski
Attending: WWU ~ Vehicle Design
WWU Formula Sae: Powertrain

Previous:
1990 Galant Vr4 (Open) <= Sold
2003 Evo VIII (Open)<= Sold to Joseph Burke

Current:
2006 Evo IX (SP)

I use HDPE, it is way cheaper than the UHMW. The underbody needs to attach loosly to the rear arms because they move through an arc that is not in the same plane as the sheet. Attach them snugly and the attachment will fail. Bungee chords work well. Vermont does a aluminum U riveted to the sheet, and a hitch pin thing, it works well, but the u is larger that the arm.

To attach the sheet to the car, I run a piece of 3/4 sguare tube down the pinch weld with M6 weld nuts every 12" or so, then weld M6 weld nuts directly to the floor or "frame rail" for the indoard. It is one continous sheet from front to behind the rear arms.



In this picture you can see the control arms and compression struts I made, the skidplate, and the underbody protection

What are you using for brakes for this project?

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First Rally: 2010 First RallyX: 2004 (a bunch)
Driver (0), Co-Driver (7)
Organizer (3), Volunteer (3)
Cars Built (2.5), Engines Blown (2) Cages Built (0) # of rotations (3.5)
Last Updated, Apr 9, 2023

For Brakes the plan so far consists of:

Front: 2g eclipse calipers, slotted rotors with porterfield pads.
Rear: Not 100% sure, we were able to get the stock brakes to clear but that was with wheel spacers, I would like to move away from that setup. Have to look more into this, any advice is appreciate here!

Stainless steel lines to hard body lines.

Using the OBP brake unit, with balance bar for the evo and hydraulic hand brake.

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Sowa Motorsports
#274 M.Rodzinski
Attending: WWU ~ Vehicle Design
WWU Formula Sae: Powertrain

Previous:
1990 Galant Vr4 (Open) <= Sold
2003 Evo VIII (Open)<= Sold to Joseph Burke

Current:
2006 Evo IX (SP)

As far as brakes go you might want to look into Thompson Racing Fabrication. Ryan (the owner) built a really nice wilwood 4-pot front setup that uses rotors only an inch smaller than stock that still fits under 15" wheels. His tests show only a few percentage loss over OEM for braking, which is pretty good for smaller brakes. His cost is a lot lower than the other setups as well. He has a thread up here about it: http://www.dirtyevo.com/showthread.php?t=936

Quote
unitedterra

Hi_____________,
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I highlighted the fun bits..

I see that set up is on your car...

I like them Evos...... so much better than those Blue Sub-a-rats

Wish there was one convenient round here so I could make a nice brake kit...
I make nice kits, you see.. well pretty good for us lowly clubbie type guys..

Seen the nice kits I do for the Xratties?

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John Vanlandingham
Sleezattle, WA, USA

Vive le Prole-le-ralliat

www.rallyrace.net/jvab
CALL +1 206 431-9696
Remember! Pacific Standard Time
is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time.

I would love to see some of your brake kits John, I'm a fan of keeping my business local if I can, that way if I need help/support/parts I can just drive over.

All of my experience with brakes have been basically the same setup. Oem rotor that we slot, Oem calipers that we rebuild, and porterfield pads. Even with my heavy left foot I had very good bite with little fade, usually only having problems on the downhill stages at Oregon trails. We tried numerous different pads, but that setup was cheap (compared to a brake kit) and parts were easy to find.

All of this being said, I have never tried an aftermarket setup on any car, so I have no basis of comparison.

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Sowa Motorsports
#274 M.Rodzinski
Attending: WWU ~ Vehicle Design
WWU Formula Sae: Powertrain

Previous:
1990 Galant Vr4 (Open) <= Sold
2003 Evo VIII (Open)<= Sold to Joseph Burke

Current:
2006 Evo IX (SP)

I've been running these on my hillclimb Evo since 2008 when I needed to have 15" wheels on the car:

http://www.amsperformance.com/cart/AMS/Wilwood-Mitsubishi-Lancer-Evolution-Evo-4-5-6-7-8-9-10-Rally-Front-Brake-Kit.html

Full disclosure - they built the kit at my request and have sponsored our team for the last 4 seasons.

Dave

Quote
DaveK
I've been running these on my hillclimb Evo since 2008 when I needed to have 15" wheels on the car:

http://www.amsperformance.com/cart/AMS/Wilwood-Mitsubishi-Lancer-Evolution-Evo-4-5-6-7-8-9-10-Rally-Front-Brake-Kit.html

Full disclosure - they built the kit at my request and have sponsored our team for the last 4 seasons.

Dave

Yeah that's a little more like what I have in mind, but estimated closer to $900.
But Superlite's 125mm long pad, correct piston sizes...

I wonder how much deeper the hat can go. It's always the steering arm that limits inboard placement of the disc but ever mm more inboard means another mm bigger chance a larger variety of wheels will clear the outboard portion of the caliper..

Been doing something like that with the radial mount caliper for a very fast road car Xratty: 13 x 1.25"

That 11.75" x 1.25" is what we did for Volvo 240 pervs and managed to get it under maybe 3 OEM wheels

---

John Vanlandingham
Sleezattle, WA, USA

Vive le Prole-le-ralliat

www.rallyrace.net/jvab
CALL +1 206 431-9696
Remember! Pacific Standard Time
is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time.

What did you run on the rear with these Dave?
Full disclosure. I've rode with Dave with these.
~$1600 includes two calipers, two piece rotor, pads, braided lines, hardware, and rotor/caliper assembled with safety wire. Seems like the way to go to me. You could probably do it cheaper, or you could also just get the AP setup that's designed for rallying...

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Grant Hughes

Stock rear calipers fit under Compomotives and Team Dynamics so I never felt the need to replace them.

FWIW, I've just upgraded my tarmac brake setup from the OEM Brembos to a radial mount AP setup, so after Pikes Peak I'm going to investigate having a new bracket made. That way I don't have to re-bleed my brakes when I swap it from one surface to the other. If I can make the APs fit under a 15" wheel...the Wilwood setup will be for sale.

Dave



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 07/02/2012 01:46PM by DaveK.

http://www.smileysracing.com/shopping/productDetails.aspx?i=96765&c=1718

They even have them in titanium so they won't add too much weight to the car.

Plus could make tie rod, strut, CV, bearing, etc work easier as you could easily pop the caliper out of the well to make room.
Might pay for itself in brake fluid over enough time.

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Grant Hughes

Quote
NoCoast
Plus could make tie rod, strut, CV, bearing, etc work easier as you could easily pop the caliper out of the well to make room.
Might pay for itself in brake fluid over enough time.

Hmmm...buy more parts, add more complexity to the system, or sell the spare kit I've got. Dont' forget, Val's got a CNC machine and has offered to help making brackets for the APs.

Dave

I actually was thinking more along the lines of sell the Wilwoods AND use dry break lines on the AP calipers. I thought you liked complexity?
Uh...
Yeah SP!

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Grant Hughes