Back at it again... Evo IX SPGT Build

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DaveK

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john vanlandingham
Liquid Nitrogen, anything else is flat silly.
Clean, faster, safer.
Time is money. And its proven best solution.

I agree that LN is pretty cool and works great on cars with rubberized undercoating, but I don't think it'd do anything for the underbody on the Evos. Mine just looked like someone had sprayed it with heavy oily goop.

Dave

Works fine on the old tar base stuff, but I don't know what the Japonaise in their wisdom might have done.
I am always wary of using paint stripper and chemicals which always get under overlapping panels then come crawling out just when you heat them up by welding..

And as for propane and wire brush, I became seriously concerned about the effects of the obviously noxious, probably toxic fumes..
Dizziness and bad headaches for a coupla days after were kinda a hint that i should look for a better methods.

When you have very limited brain capacity like I do, you can't afford to kill off millions of brain cells.

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John Vanlandingham
Sleezattle, WA, USA

Vive le Prole-le-ralliat

www.rallyrace.net/jvab
CALL +1 206 431-9696
Remember! Pacific Standard Time
is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time.

Grab a harbor freight oscilating scraper for 20 bucks. I tried dry ice and a hammer and chisel and almost quit the build. That scraper removed the large majority without the need for dry ice.

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aj_johnson
Grab a harbor freight oscilating scraper for 20 bucks. I tried dry ice and a hammer and chisel and almost quit the build. That scraper removed the large majority without the need for dry ice.

Dry ice sucks. You listened to the wrong guys. Dry ice being all jagged and piled up is mostly "not in direct contact" with the goo. It's NEAR but theres gaps. of AIR and air is a superb insulator..

You gotta get you Daoist groove going and think of what Lao Tzu said about water. It is the most yielding but it also is the most...whatever---it encompasses, flows, contacts perfectly--directly..

Dry ice is not liquid and the ice goes from the solid directly to gas..
Liquid..

Go read Dao De Jing
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Laozi
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tao_Te_Ching

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John Vanlandingham
Sleezattle, WA, USA

Vive le Prole-le-ralliat

www.rallyrace.net/jvab
CALL +1 206 431-9696
Remember! Pacific Standard Time
is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time.

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john vanlandingham

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alkun
Doivi,

thats some beautiful work there.

Please enlighten us who are not worthy:


with the stitch welding, even after stripping and dental picking, I've had lots of problems with paint and seam sealer making for sooper ugly welds, you seem to have it worked out, whats the secret?

Liquid Nitrogen, anything else is flat silly.
Clean, faster, safer.
Time is money. And its proven best solution.

But how does that get the seam sealer out from between the seams? It probably works better for getting the tar and rubberized undercoating off the floor. I wasn't commenting on that. Also, you have to be very careful with the liquid nitrogen. I've seen the results of overdoing it. Brittle looking sheetmetal with cracks and holes poked through all over on one of the Merkurs that was douched with the ray gun. You're basically cryo treating the sheetmetal.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 09/07/2012 05:17PM by Doivi Clarkinen.

Of course you have to be careful.
But you don't melt the brains with the fumes and that's worth something.
And do not understand about "seam sealer BETWEEN seams".

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John Vanlandingham
Sleezattle, WA, USA

Vive le Prole-le-ralliat

www.rallyrace.net/jvab
CALL +1 206 431-9696
Remember! Pacific Standard Time
is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time.

Quote
john vanlandingham
Of course you have to be careful.
But you don't melt the brains with the fumes and that's worth something.

Huh? Fumes never hurt me none...

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john vanlandingham
And do not understand about "seam sealer BETWEEN seams".

You know, the stuff that gets between the gaps and the seams and explosively erupts when you try to weld it without cleaning it out.

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Doivi Clarkinen
You know, the stuff that gets between the gaps and the seams and explosively erupts when you try to weld it without cleaning it out.

In my experience, most of that froze => shrinkage => able to fall out.
It is a fine line between just enough LN and too much and cracking the sheet metal. I did end up with occasional crack or hole but usually on a spot with really thin metal and goo.

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Grant Hughes

While I understand the in-crowd and the death ray, I always used the wire brush, scraper, torch method myself.

Touch and wire wheel works well but it's a lot of work and doesn't get all of the sealant out. I did my Subie this way and had one in three welds hit hidden sealer = hollow snail welds!

A boiling caustic soda bath for 2 weeks is the way to go but that also has down sides, like availability and cost.

Andrew

We actually used the dry ice method to remove all the sound deadening material, then Dave's method to clean most of the seam sealer for him.

Car is off to paint today! She'll be pretty in white, no funky colors this time

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Sowa Motorsports
#274 M.Rodzinski
Attending: WWU ~ Vehicle Design
WWU Formula Sae: Powertrain

Previous:
1990 Galant Vr4 (Open) <= Sold
2003 Evo VIII (Open)<= Sold to Joseph Burke

Current:
2006 Evo IX (SP)

Dave's work looks even cleaner with paint. With school, work, and this build I feel like there are not enough hours in the day. Hopefully next week I'll post another update with some assembly.

Clicky
Clicky
Clicky
Clicky
Clicky
Clicky
Clicky
Clicky
Clicky

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Sowa Motorsports
#274 M.Rodzinski
Attending: WWU ~ Vehicle Design
WWU Formula Sae: Powertrain

Previous:
1990 Galant Vr4 (Open) <= Sold
2003 Evo VIII (Open)<= Sold to Joseph Burke

Current:
2006 Evo IX (SP)

those door openings look huge! Should be easy to get in/out.

there is a bell housing for evo motor rear drive now if you get tired of being cool with that awd.

looks killer though!

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TSSFAB.US No HYPE just parts!!!! And check us out on Facebook!!!

I've seen a couple builds using that bellhousing on projectzerog

Made some forward progress. Heaterbox, dash bar and wiring harness are installed in the car. Before we move and further forward its time to run the brake lines and fuel lines in the car. The first hurdle that I need to overcome is the issue of removing the abs while keeping the acd sytem.

So I am in need of your help again. Anyone with any experience with this want to chime in or point me in the right direction?

Edit: So I found the service manual online for the evo ix, we only had the viii shop manual. Luckily Mitsubishi posted both diagrams for the acd system with and without abs. Pages 90-122 & 90-130 if anyone is intersted. Here is a copy of the shop manual for those in need. Evo Shop Manuals

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Sowa Motorsports
#274 M.Rodzinski
Attending: WWU ~ Vehicle Design
WWU Formula Sae: Powertrain

Previous:
1990 Galant Vr4 (Open) <= Sold
2003 Evo VIII (Open)<= Sold to Joseph Burke

Current:
2006 Evo IX (SP)



Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 11/11/2012 11:36PM by Mitsudriver274.

Sorry guys, I got sucked into formula sae this year. Which has been an amazing experience, I was chosen to be one of the four drivers for the team and drove at Detroit this year. We placed 17th out of 120 teams, I believe only 40 teams actually made it through the event. The whole aspect of the design competition is very appealing and from an engineering and manufacturing standpoint I have gained a lot knowledge (Here is a motor plate I designed). After Detroit (6 weeks ago) we pulled the IC powertrain out of the car and started installing a full electric conversion. I can't put into words how excited I am to drive a high performance electric vehicle, the experience should be unreal as the IC cars are very fast (and a very humbling experience, I have a lot to learn as a driver). We have 4 days to wire and test the car, and then drive out to Lincoln Nebraska to go an compete in the first ever electric Fsae event in North America. As soon as I get back, get to move on from one race car to another, I can't complain.

The Evo build is moving a long slowly, more from a parts gathering perspective. Waiting on seats to begin fabrication of a few little pieces. But we decided on a few major components and got them in.

Brakes: We are using a OBP dual master cylinder setup with a hydraulic hand brake.Clicky

Struts: We went with RS&SP, very nice quality. Clicky

FYI, We did purchase the struts through rallispec, and from a customer service standpoint it was very pleasant. No issues, A+ service.

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Sowa Motorsports
#274 M.Rodzinski
Attending: WWU ~ Vehicle Design
WWU Formula Sae: Powertrain

Previous:
1990 Galant Vr4 (Open) <= Sold
2003 Evo VIII (Open)<= Sold to Joseph Burke

Current:
2006 Evo IX (SP)



Edited 4 time(s). Last edit at 06/12/2013 04:08AM by Mitsudriver274.