Revamping the Rx7

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Whaaaaaaaaaa!

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John Vanlandingham
Sleezattle, WA, USA

Vive le Prole-le-ralliat

www.rallyrace.net/jvab
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add to the photo link.

yea. thats almost insane how clean it was then... Mine go is a touch rougher since, well, its rougher and i need to get out and rough it up more! but the white paint was stained from dirt before, and being its under gone some things, i figured a color change would make it "my own" in a way. Although it seems to have been green and perhaps pink at one time too...

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First Rally: 2010 First RallyX: 2004 (a bunch)
Driver (0), Co-Driver (7)
Organizer (3), Volunteer (3)
Cars Built (2.5), Engines Blown (2) Cages Built (0) # of rotations (3.5)
Last Updated, Apr 9, 2023

a side by side.

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First Rally: 2010 First RallyX: 2004 (a bunch)
Driver (0), Co-Driver (7)
Organizer (3), Volunteer (3)
Cars Built (2.5), Engines Blown (2) Cages Built (0) # of rotations (3.5)
Last Updated, Apr 9, 2023

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Andrew Steere
Lyndeborough, NH
KB1PJY

Quote
Gravity Fed
add to the photo link.

yea. thats almost insane how clean it was then... Mine go is a touch rougher since, well, its rougher and i need to get out and rough it up more! but the white paint was stained from dirt before, and being its under gone some things, i figured a color change would make it "my own" in a way. Although it seems to have been green and perhaps pink at one time too...

I've shared photos from Picasa before. Not sure why it's not working now. Anyway- you managed to see it.

Yes, the car was at one time green and pink... as you can see as you sand away some of the blue and white. I tried to get a photo of it like that from the original owner, but it never happened.

It was definitely time for a refresh- I think you're making it look great.

Doug

seats back in!

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First Rally: 2010 First RallyX: 2004 (a bunch)
Driver (0), Co-Driver (7)
Organizer (3), Volunteer (3)
Cars Built (2.5), Engines Blown (2) Cages Built (0) # of rotations (3.5)
Last Updated, Apr 9, 2023

Not to be a PITA but are those seatbelt mounts too far down? Looking at section 5.3.H:

H. Shoulder Harness
1. The shoulder harness shall be a two strap over the shoulder type.
There shall be a single release common to the lap belt and shoulder
harness. Only completely separate straps are permitted. “Y-type”
shoulder straps are not allowed; “H-type” configuration is allowed.
The separate straps shall be individually attached to the structural
points of support. The shoulder harness angle to the point of support
shall be between horizontal and 10° below horizontal and
perpendicular to the rear of the seat. The belts shall also be kept as
short as practical. At the mounting point, the distance from the
center of one belt to the center of the other shall be 7" or less, closer
is better.

You might want to consider added a bar to wrap the belts around up higher?

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"I, for one, welcome our Robot Overlords." - Philip J. Fry

I actually threw a degree gauge on it back when I owned it because I wondered the same thing. They are with in the required angle.

That being said it was on the list of things I was going to do, because a bar would be better.

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"Rally racing makes a heroin addiction look like a vague craving for something salty"

Beautiful Alex. It's looking simply beautiful.
I has 2 questions:
1) Battery placement: I have an Optima red-top as well. How are you going to approach sealing/insulating it to meet RA in-cockpit regs? I seem to remember you saying something about an Ammo box?
P.S. If you are going to keep running the red-top, find out the garage that services the mail-trucks in your area. Mail trucks also use the red-top and they replace their batteries all the time (they use the side terminals, which have bad connectivity in the first place). I was able to get one for free that tested at 798cca opposed to 800 from a brand new one.
2) Rear strut towers: Did you decide against upping the size of the boxes for a larger shock? What drove that decision?

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"The more I learn, the more I realize I don't know and have so much more to learn." - Claude Rouelle, Optimum G lecture June, 2011

Actually the optimas dont need the boxes. They want the vented box for a normal acid filled battery. You do still have to cover the positive terminal, just zip tie on a chunk of old inertube.

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"Rally racing makes a heroin addiction look like a vague craving for something salty"

well the roll cage would likely need modification to change the tops. But as for what will fit, my budget suggests i cant change much in the rear quite yet.

and correct, mat glass and other style batteries like Optimas do not require a box.

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First Rally: 2010 First RallyX: 2004 (a bunch)
Driver (0), Co-Driver (7)
Organizer (3), Volunteer (3)
Cars Built (2.5), Engines Blown (2) Cages Built (0) # of rotations (3.5)
Last Updated, Apr 9, 2023

Why a red top? I'd always heard the benefit of having an Optima Yellow was if alternator failed you'd have most likelihood of being able to drive it back to service on just the battery. Eric Burmeister I think actually had to do so at one point. I thought the benefit of a red top was that it was good for hard starting vehicles.

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Grant Hughes

From my understanding, yellow tops are designed to be used without alternators, or at least in frequent "charge/discharge" uses. That's why we picked them over the other optima's for the electric go karts when I was a mechanic at K1. The things get charged and discharged all day long. 4 batteries per kart.

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Welcome to the cult of JVL drink the koolaid or be banned.

i already had the red top so i used it

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First Rally: 2010 First RallyX: 2004 (a bunch)
Driver (0), Co-Driver (7)
Organizer (3), Volunteer (3)
Cars Built (2.5), Engines Blown (2) Cages Built (0) # of rotations (3.5)
Last Updated, Apr 9, 2023

Made the fuel pump holder thingy. Need to buy another Walbro however...

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First Rally: 2010 First RallyX: 2004 (a bunch)
Driver (0), Co-Driver (7)
Organizer (3), Volunteer (3)
Cars Built (2.5), Engines Blown (2) Cages Built (0) # of rotations (3.5)
Last Updated, Apr 9, 2023