Revamping the Rx7

I like it!

Quote
mellow65
Actually the optimas dont need the boxes. They want the vented box for a normal acid filled battery. You do still have to cover the positive terminal, just zip tie on a chunk of old inertube.

Beauti-ous. I like it! Thanks!

Quote
NoCoast
Why a red top? I'd always heard the benefit of having an Optima Yellow was if alternator failed you'd have most likelihood of being able to drive it back to service on just the battery. Eric Burmeister I think actually had to do so at one point. I thought the benefit of a red top was that it was good for hard starting vehicles.

I got mine for free and its basically brand-spankin new. Done deal for me!

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"The more I learn, the more I realize I don't know and have so much more to learn." - Claude Rouelle, Optimum G lecture June, 2011



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 07/23/2012 11:12AM by MeCalledEvan.

Okay. Its time to discuss electrical what not.

1. Fuse Amperages

Fuel Pump 1 - 15A
Fuel Pump 2 - 15A
Fan
Ignition (ECU, etc)
Aux (terratrip, map light, 12v outlet, intercom)
Driving Lights (including gauge illumination)
Headlights
Horns
Washer Motor
Windshield Wipers

I am not sure what amperages to use for most of the above items. I will likely just mimic what the factory fuse box used unless anyone has other suggestions.

The things like stop lights, hazards & turn signals will be on there own fuel time service. Again, ill be splicing into the factory method for this.


2. Relays

I plan to use Bosch 0 322 204 150 relays for at least the fuel pumps, since they are under 30 amps. I am not sure about the rest. For items that might need a higher rated relay, what would be good? I assume Bosch makes a higher rated relay.


3. Wipers and Washers

For the windshield wipers and the washer motor. I would like to have a foot control for the co driver to operate both similiar to the factory method which sprays for however long you hold the momentary switch, then wipers for a few seconds after. Planning another switch for actual wiper controls on the panel for the speed selection. I might just reuse the factory wiring and controls for this to work. That is unless someone has a better idea.

---

First Rally: 2010 First RallyX: 2004 (a bunch)
Driver (0), Co-Driver (7)
Organizer (3), Volunteer (3)
Cars Built (2.5), Engines Blown (2) Cages Built (0) # of rotations (3.5)
Last Updated, Apr 9, 2023

Quote
Gravity Fed
Okay. Its time to discuss electrical what not.

1. Fuse Amperages

Fuel Pump 1 - 15A
Fuel Pump 2 - 15A
Fan
Ignition (ECU, etc)
Aux (terratrip, map light, 12v outlet, intercom)
Driving Lights (including gauge illumination)
Headlights
Horns
Washer Motor
Windshield Wipers

I am not sure what amperage to use for most of the above items. I will likely just mimic what the factory fuse box used unless anyone has other suggestions.

Headlights wattage divide by volts and some overhead. ie 100/14=7=10 amp fuse
Aux lights same

The things like stop lights, hazards & turn signals will be on there own fuel time service. Again, ill be splicing into the factory method for this.

Quote

2. Relays

I plan to use Bosch 0 322 204 150 relays for at least the fuel pumps, since they are under 30 amps. I am not sure about the rest. For items that might need a higher rated relay, what would be good? I assume Bosch makes a higher rated relay.

There are Bosch 40 amp fuses.
Look at "Waytek" for relays and realy holder thangs that snap base to base, makes a nice "block" of fuses.

Quote

3. Wipers and Washers

For the windshield wipers and the washer motor. I would like to have a foot control for the co driver to operate both similiar to the factory method which sprays for however long you hold the momentary switch, then wipers for a few seconds after. Planning another switch for actual wiper controls on the panel for the speed selection. I might just reuse the factory wiring and controls for this to work. That is unless someone has a better idea.

I think NAPA tends to carry a stout momentary on switch that can be used as a floor mounted deal for the co-driver to hit.....hands-free dontch know..their hands are full of notes and Sharpie pens and stopwatches, so a foot switch on the co driver footrest seems a smrat ideer.

Waytek has nice cable ends for poking into the relay holders with the little tang thing so the wire clicks and stays in, 16 cents for 10-12g, for 30 and 87
http://www.waytekwire.com/item/32074/TERMINAL-FOR-RELAY-CONNECTOR/ cheep


And the holders


$0.6792
Item #: 75280
Selling U/M:
EA EACH
Available: 17992.00
Links:
Catalog Page

More goodies:
http://www.waytekwire.com/products/1402/Mechanical-Relays---Connectors/&pg=2

---

John Vanlandingham
Sleezattle, WA, USA

Vive le Prole-le-ralliat

www.rallyrace.net/jvab
CALL +1 206 431-9696
Remember! Pacific Standard Time
is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time.

Yep, waytech has some good stuff. There shouldn't be much that requires a relay larger than 30 amps.... unless I'm missing something.

i have always snagged some relays from the junkyards.



The rack that they snap on to is from an early 90s pontiac and all the relays were from early 90s cadillacs.

All the under hood factory relays for cadillacs were from Hella. And they all have great water proof connectors and big wires going in and out. Perfect for lights or what ever. Also I keep a few spares on the rack just encase they die.

---

"Rally racing makes a heroin addiction look like a vague craving for something salty"



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 07/24/2012 01:37PM by mellow65.

Next time I'm at a JY, I'm going to look for something like that, I really like it! It would work much better than just zip-tying the relays to my air conditioning line like I have them right now, lol!

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---** To be in compliance with the Anarchy **---
Jorden R. Kleier
Baraboo, Wisconsin, USA
1990 Mazdog Protege 4WD
1973

Just remember, anything with a motor can draw upto twice the current on startup, so fuse accordingly. Lamps and stuff do start a bit higher, then taper down to the rated wattage. the voltage available at the bulb will affect current flow, lower voltage=more amps. Like the factory, I tend to double up on stuff that it does not matter if the fuse blows, car still runs. Always protect ignition, and ECU on their own fuses. Aircraft Spruce has great prices on Aircraft grade circuit breakers. They are easy to mount, wire in, and you can guess the benefits.

also my rule of thumb, and just a good all around idea, anything that could cause you to DNF solder and shrink wrap. even if you are using something like a crimp terminal, still hit it with some solder and shrink wrap it.

---

"Rally racing makes a heroin addiction look like a vague craving for something salty"

Quote
mellow65
also my rule of thumb, and just a good all around idea, anything that could cause you to DNF solder and shrink wrap.

Actually I've heard, but am not an expert, that soldering connections actually introduces brittleness and could lead to failures and that PROPERLY done crimp connections are more than adequate.
I'd love to hear the opinion of someone who has a better handle on this.

---

First Rally: 2001
Driver (7), Co-Driver (44)
Drivers (16)
Clerk (10), Official (7), Volunteer (4)
Cars Built (1), Engines Built (0) Cages Built (0)
Last Updated, January 4, 2015

Quote
john vanlandingham
Blame is for idiots. losers.

Quote
Morison

Quote
mellow65
also my rule of thumb, and just a good all around idea, anything that could cause you to DNF solder and shrink wrap.

Actually I've heard, but am not an expert, that soldering connections actually introduces brittleness and could lead to failures and that PROPERLY done crimp connections are more than adequate.
I'd love to hear the opinion of someone who has a better handle on this.

That was just Ford Motorsport and Saab Sport and Rally saying crimp and NOT SOLDER, but name thats for You're a Peein rally, I want to know about American conditions not some obscure foreign crap nobody ever heard of.
It nearly goes without saying if the faggy Euro Surrender money's say not to solder, that any real American would naturally solder..

Think of this: they say don't solder, but USA one WWII agaist German, Italy, France, Russia everybody single handed, didn't see any crimp connections on US equipment didya..
That's the thing, you never give up.
Did we five up when the Germans bombed Pearl Harbour?
Hell no!
Did washington give up at the Alamo?
Hell no!

You gonna give up and just crimp because some limpwristed Nancy-boys hipsters say don't solder?

HELL NO!!

---

John Vanlandingham
Sleezattle, WA, USA

Vive le Prole-le-ralliat

www.rallyrace.net/jvab
CALL +1 206 431-9696
Remember! Pacific Standard Time
is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time.

Quote
Morison

Quote
mellow65
also my rule of thumb, and just a good all around idea, anything that could cause you to DNF solder and shrink wrap.

Actually I've heard, but am not an expert, that soldering connections actually introduces brittleness and could lead to failures and that PROPERLY done crimp connections are more than adequate.
I'd love to hear the opinion of someone who has a better handle on this.

hmmm, i can understand where that comes from.

my playing around with cars for the last 15 some odd years (which is a drop in the bucket to some) and many many years before that messing around with RC cars I have soldered a crap load of stuff. What I have experienced is older soldered joints is where I have seen brittle wires that is just out side of the puddle of solder.

Fresh wires or even good Japanese wires I have never had any issues with. I have even tried to break a solder just for fun, I took an older wire and soldered two ends together and was able to support my weight, and I'm in the 240lb range.

so yeah, maybe something could happen, but I still will continue to do it.

---

"Rally racing makes a heroin addiction look like a vague craving for something salty"

Quote
Morison
Actually I've heard, but am not an expert, that soldering connections actually introduces brittleness and could lead to failures and that PROPERLY done crimp connections are more than adequate.
I'd love to hear the opinion of someone who has a better handle on this.

this is also the key point here too, the 4 rally cars i have owned and gone through, i didn't to see anything better then a super cheap butt connector

---

"Rally racing makes a heroin addiction look like a vague craving for something salty"

Quote
john vanlandingham
That was just Ford Motorsport and Saab Sport and Rally saying...

As I recall, I heard it from an avionics/aeronautics type. I do remember the comment 'if crimp joints without solder are good enough for an airliner...'
I guess the question is 'what benefit' does soldering a properly done crimp connection bring? Are there any negatives?
It is always a question of using the right tool for the job. An inline solder joint could well be a better answer than a but-joint crimp connector. But anything in a high flexibility or stress location is probably better not soldered ... I'd think.

---

First Rally: 2001
Driver (7), Co-Driver (44)
Drivers (16)
Clerk (10), Official (7), Volunteer (4)
Cars Built (1), Engines Built (0) Cages Built (0)
Last Updated, January 4, 2015

Quote
john vanlandingham
Blame is for idiots. losers.

Soldering fresh wires is a no brainer. Clean wires provide a good solder joint that should never fail.

Butt connectors work great when installed properly. Dan Norkus' car is a great example of what happens when someone installs butt connectors with a set of harbor freight needlenose. 20 year old wires that have seen serious heat cycling, and weather are tough to solder, impossible to clean and prone to breaking. In that case you are better off properly installing butt connectors.

Remember guys it's still just metal. Like tig welding is appropriate sometimes, and mig others, and still arc or acetelyne might be the best bet somewhere else. I'ts a bit silly to say "solder everything" or "butt connect everything"

Sometimes the best thing to do is install a proper multipin connector. Whether you use trailer light connections or a mil spec connector. If you have 16 wires going to the dash, one connector makes install/removal/repair alot easier, plus you dont have a single wire taking all the forces of some service area mechanic and failing middle of the next stage.

Me and the whiskeys $.02