gr.2 Rally Civic Project

thanks! I checked out that site, as well tire rack and eshocks. both sell the same part#'s as above.

If I grab the ground controls, I would obviously need to ask for specified shock lengths and rates, What are you guys doing for that? do the ground controls accept the 2.5" springs? Should I consider a Tender spring??

So much to think about, what kind of logic is put towards sizing everything?

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I'm always posting on Instagram...follow me! PeteNaz Instagram

My Build

Quote
Cosworth

And by the way just created said Facebook Honda Rally page, this way we can share all sorts of info
http://www.facebook.com/pages/Honda-Rally/425485000876816

I don't have a honda (other than a snowblower) but I am going to follow this. Good luck guys!

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Kirk Coughlin
Woodbury, MN and River Falls, WI

Quemadmodum gladius neminem occidit, occidentis telum est.

Quote
darkknight9

Quote
Cosworth

And by the way just created said Facebook Honda Rally page, this way we can share all sorts of info
http://www.facebook.com/pages/Honda-Rally/425485000876816

I don't have a honda (other than a snowblower) but I am going to follow this. Good luck guys!

Yeah great idea, another dead end place to ghettoize the community. Great!

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John Vanlandingham
Sleezattle, WA, USA

Vive le Prole-le-ralliat

www.rallyrace.net/jvab
CALL +1 206 431-9696
Remember! Pacific Standard Time
is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time.

Quote
john vanlandingham

Quote
darkknight9

Quote
Cosworth

And by the way just created said Facebook Honda Rally page, this way we can share all sorts of info
http://www.facebook.com/pages/Honda-Rally/425485000876816

I don't have a honda (other than a snowblower) but I am going to follow this. Good luck guys!

Yeah great idea, another dead end place to ghettoize the community. Great!

Speaking of community, I'd rather see some enthusiasm over getting cars into the field than the free for all's that are occurring over regulation changes wouldn't you?

Don't poo poo em John!

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Kirk Coughlin
Woodbury, MN and River Falls, WI

Quemadmodum gladius neminem occidit, occidentis telum est.

Quote
darkknight9

Quote
john vanlandingham

Quote
darkknight9

Quote
Cosworth

And by the way just created said Facebook Honda Rally page, this way we can share all sorts of info
http://www.facebook.com/pages/Honda-Rally/425485000876816

I don't have a honda (other than a snowblower) but I am going to follow this. Good luck guys!

Yeah great idea, another dead end place to ghettoize the community. Great!

Speaking of community, I'd rather see some enthusiasm over getting cars into the field than the free for all's that are occurring over regulation changes wouldn't you?

Don't poo poo em John!

I've been enthusiastically helping enthusiasts get into the woods a portion of every day since about 1985, that is why I have no patience left for when I see the same type of mindless meddling with rules again and again and again and again with zero reasoning behind it, and people who it doesn't effect generating and fighting to push their made up problems thru..

I posted a quick list of 21-22 people I know who are affected by just the one rule change...did you see it?

Like many crisis, silence is death.

---

John Vanlandingham
Sleezattle, WA, USA

Vive le Prole-le-ralliat

www.rallyrace.net/jvab
CALL +1 206 431-9696
Remember! Pacific Standard Time
is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time.

Quote
john vanlandingham
I've been enthusiastically helping enthusiasts get into the woods a portion of every day since about 1985, that is why I have no patience left for when I see the same type of mindless meddling with rules again and again and again and again with zero reasoning behind it, and people who it doesn't effect generating and fighting to push their made up problems thru..

I posted a quick list of 21-22 people I know who are affected by just the one rule change...did you see it?

Like many crisis, silence is death.

I wasn't blaming you for the rules discussions or how anyone feels about them. There's so damn little to be happy about lately that seeing some folks start to organize around a particular car is kinda cool.

That's all.

---

Kirk Coughlin
Woodbury, MN and River Falls, WI

Quemadmodum gladius neminem occidit, occidentis telum est.

Quote
PeteNaz
thanks! I checked out that site, as well tire rack and eshocks. both sell the same part#'s as above.

If I grab the ground controls, I would obviously need to ask for specified shock lengths and rates, What are you guys doing for that? do the ground controls accept the 2.5" springs? Should I consider a Tender spring??

So much to think about, what kind of logic is put towards sizing everything?

I run 70N/mm 300mm H&R springs with tenders for gravel up front and 40N/mm in rear. Swap front spring to the rear, 100N/mm spring up front at same 300mm length with tender for tarmac. For snow, swap the rear spring to the front and new softer spring in the rear (25N/mm if I remember), both 300mm with no tenders. Although, for snow I have been getting some binding issues so I would suggest to try and get the same rate in the longest possible length you can get. I run the fronts with quite a bit of pre-load on them to get the ride height up. I'm even considering just running OEM EX Civic springs with revalved Bilstein's for snow.

If you want to go completely away from having adjustable spring perches. Tein makes a gravel spring. I'm not sure if it's a drop in replacement or total spring length is for an OEM shock but you can look into it. Rates are 63N/mm up front and 35N/mm in the rear with around half inch lift.

http://www.tein.com/tech_info/h98.html (scroll to the bottom)



Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 03/01/2013 11:58AM by BillyElliot.

Quote
BillyElliot

Quote
PeteNaz
thanks! I checked out that site, as well tire rack and eshocks. both sell the same part#'s as above.

If I grab the ground controls, I would obviously need to ask for specified shock lengths and rates, What are you guys doing for that? do the ground controls accept the 2.5" springs? Should I consider a Tender spring??

So much to think about, what kind of logic is put towards sizing everything?

I run 70N/mm 300mm H&R springs with tenders for gravel up front and 40N/mm in rear. Swap front spring to the rear, 100N/mm spring up front at same 300mm length with tender for tarmac. For snow, swap the rear spring to the front and new softer spring in the rear (25N/mm if I remember), both 300mm with no tenders. Although, for snow I have been getting some binding issues so I would suggest to try and get the same rate in the longest possible length you can get. I run the fronts with quite a bit of pre-load on them to get the ride height up. I'm even considering just running OEM EX Civic springs with revalved Bilstein's for snow.

If you want to go completely away from having adjustable spring perches. Tein makes a gravel spring. I'm not sure if it's a drop in replacement or total spring length is for an OEM shock but you can look into it. Rates are 63N/mm up front and 35N/mm in the rear with around half inch lift.

http://www.tein.com/tech_info/h98.html (scroll to the bottom)

Thanks Billy! Its funny, I remember you saying that in a different thread about snodrift once so I was actually looking at that right before you would have posted this!

I've got a general question about suspension....Say I had bilsteins, and then put coilover sleeves on them, how would I decide on a spring length? I'm just trying to wrap my head around that part. If I pick a length then go to lower the purch, wouldnt there be some slop and the coil wouldnt stay put at full extension? I dont know if what I'm saying makes sense.... I know on a real coilover set, I would be able to set my spring, set preload, then adjust height with the bottom of the system, not actually the spring perch....Sorry to confuse??

I may hold out a bit and just get some HotBits. not sure yet

So I took the car out for another rallycross, Need to get in all the seat time I can!! It was so much fun, last in the series and it was all held on Ghost Lake right down the street from me really

I put in some Hawk HP's before the event as well as a new short shifter (My shift linkage was super sloppy) all bushings are changed and the only slop left is from the universal joint being warn out.


The gf called it the snot rocket...not sure I want that to stick (i dont think any pun was intended) but its the funniest one I've heard so far haha

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I'm always posting on Instagram...follow me! PeteNaz Instagram

My Build

I run tenders on the gravel and tarmac to take out the slack when at full droop. All my adjustments are done with the lower perch for pre-load and ride height. If I ran the spring rates I want for gravel with no tenders, the car wouldn't sit right and would be too high. I run without tenders for snow because my springs are so soft that I need to pre-load the fuck out of them to get them to have the car at a reasonable ride height. But like I said, this leads to a good bit of spring binding so I need to find a longer spring.

If you do get a Hot Bits setup. Tell them you want 300mm springs. They come with 250mm or maybe it was even 230mm and the fronts are too short. You could probably get away with a 325mm or even maybe a 350mm spring front and rear as well but don't quote me on that, I haven't done the measurements to make sure it would clear. I just run 300mm because that's the longest H&R sells and I didn't want to go about stacking two stiffer springs to make one softer spring.

Thanks Billy, I've been chatting with the Hotbits guys a bit now. I think I know what I'll be getting once I pull the trigger. I'll run stock the first event atleast, save some money this summer before the next event and get them! (rather do an event than have the car sit in the garage with new suspension that I cant afford to race with hahaha...but I'm not to far off )

Billy, what did you use to attach the underbody sheets to the chassis? weld nuts to the bottom?

I'll be fab'ing up a skid plate in the next week as well as some though on underbody sheets like I've seen in your build. Billies Honda build

Also, Do you have anything in the drivers side wheel well protecting the timing belt that you can plain as day? Just the stock splash shield? or hasn't been a worry for you?

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I'm always posting on Instagram...follow me! PeteNaz Instagram

My Build



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 03/07/2013 01:57PM by PeteNaz.

Just rivet it on... Find washers that fit the rivet head, one on the bottom, one on the top, then rivet... Quick, easy.. Replaceable... You really don't take the underbody off for service or anything... Just once it wears out...

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I be sorry as a muthafucka I did, still sorry I did n' hustled ta peep what tha fuck I holla'd a lil' bit better, or at least try to.

Quote
PeteNaz
Thanks Billy, I've been chatting with the Hotbits guys a bit now. I think I know what I'll be getting once I pull the trigger. I'll run stock the first event atleast, save some money this summer before the next event and get them! (rather do an event than have the car sit in the garage with new suspension that I cant afford to race with hahaha...but I'm not to far off )

Billy, what did you use to attach the underbody sheets to the chassis? weld nuts to the bottom?

I'll be fab'ing up a skid plate in the next week as well as some though on underbody sheets like I've seen in your build. Billies Honda build

Also, Do you have anything in the drivers side wheel well protecting the timing belt that you can plain as day? Just the stock splash shield? or hasn't been a worry for you?

You can see here, I put weld nuts. I had riveted my last underbody onto my VW but once you had a leading edge let go, you'll end up ripping off your whole underbody. That happened to me at NEFR. I would at least weld-nut the leading and trailing edge to give it a more robust mount. Then rivet everything else in between.

http://www.specialstage.com/forums/showthread.php?40237-Honda-Civic-G2-Build&p=363957#post363957

As far as the accessort belt coverage (timing belt should all be inside the plastic cover on the side of the engine). I don't think I have any good pictures of it, but I riveted some LDPE flaps that cover it.

You can see it in this from 100AW cattle guard jump shot. The rivet got loose in the front. I always find anything I rivet on ends up stretching the hole and ripping the rivet out eventually. That's why I want to go with wed nuts only when I can.





Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 03/07/2013 10:53PM by BillyElliot.

Just rivet it on... Find washers that fit the rivet head, one on the bottom, one on the top, then rivet... Quick, easy.. Replaceable... You really don't take the underbody off for service or anything... Just once it wears out... If your worried about the leading edge, then either bolt it with big washers. you can also do a doubled up or replaceable front edge.. Take a 6 inch or 1 ft section of plastic and over lap the front edge, then if that starts to get beat, you just replace a small section, rather than the whole side..

I personally try to not rivet anything in my cars. Weld nuts or zip ties.

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Grant Hughes

Peter, think hard about the Hotbitch..
I'm sorry but almost eveybody I have spoken with kills them, as in failures, not bend, BREAK, or puke the guts out..

And there's no numbers know for the rates to start with, so no known way to re-do except to say "Uh make it kinda stiffer"
"How much"
Kinda sorta"

The availability of compression and rebound numbers is why I stick with Bilstein...
Think hard, there's little difference in price in the end, and the difference is worth it.

---

John Vanlandingham
Sleezattle, WA, USA

Vive le Prole-le-ralliat

www.rallyrace.net/jvab
CALL +1 206 431-9696
Remember! Pacific Standard Time
is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time.