gr.2 Rally Civic Project

Ya I already have decided its way to sketchy haha....I just found it browsing the internet and was curious....him not knowing anything about it made me laugh a bit

Any problems you've heard of buying JDM motors online? The only reason I would buy a running integra would be that I can see it actually runs before I put it in.

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Most have a start up guarantee. The whole story with JDM motors is that their emissions (or maybe used car taxes) laws are bat shit crazy, so pretty much it's cheaper to buy a new car than run an old car.

Either that, or some US guy lives in Japan, buys used cars with low miles on the cheap and they cut the cars in half and send the front clips to the US in a shipping crate.

Either way, if you buy from Osaka or Hmotors you're in good hands. Anything else YMMV.

I know Dan (shiza on here) bought a JDM ITR engine for his car (the ex-MJ integra), and the first one he got had a rod knock or something. I know he ended up with another one, and I _believe_ it wasn't out of his pocket.

But, since it's all third-hand stories pieced together from facebook updates, I'm not sure. No idea who he bought from either...

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KF7RWG
http://www.utahrallygroup.com

I'm going to be picking up a JDM B18C next weekend like in the link you sent me. thanks, I think it'll be a fun upgrade although a bit more power than I was looking for to start with....I was kind of put in an awkward situation with my shittank crapping out on me.

A question I had was if it is worth getting the LSD option for it ($250) which is a gear or helical type I believe (not as great on loose....which is all I'll be driving on....) or should I get the open, weld it, and save up for a clutch diff?

Any opinions?

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Depends if you want to spend the cash, Clutch type is better but a helical LSD is better than no LSD. You can always sell the helical when you get a clutch type for the same price you paid for it. I haven't had experience with a welded diff in a Honda. Only ones I know that did are the Himes brothers.

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PeteNaz
I'm going to be picking up a JDM B18C next weekend like in the link you sent me. thanks, I think it'll be a fun upgrade although a bit more power than I was looking for to start with....I was kind of put in an awkward situation with my shittank crapping out on me.

A question I had was if it is worth getting the LSD option for it ($250) which is a gear or helical type I believe (not as great on loose....which is all I'll be driving on....) or should I get the open, weld it, and save up for a clutch diff?

Any opinions?

It snows in Alberta. Twirly gear types are no better than open on snow and ice.
That means its useless.
Don't waste the effort of R&Ring the gearbox twice..and stripping it twice and dealing with shit function in between.

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John Vanlandingham
Sleezattle, WA, USA

Vive le Prole-le-ralliat

www.rallyrace.net/jvab
CALL +1 206 431-9696
Remember! Pacific Standard Time
is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time.

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Aaron Luptak
I know Dan (shiza on here) bought a JDM ITR engine for his car (the ex-MJ integra), and the first one he got had a rod knock or something. I know he ended up with another one, and I _believe_ it wasn't out of his pocket.

But, since it's all third-hand stories pieced together from facebook updates, I'm not sure. No idea who he bought from either...

You got it right. Put it in and it had rod knock right away. Never even got to drive it. Sent it back, got a refund, then ordered another from a different company. It sucked because I didn't get the new motor until after the Idaho rally. It was running about 2 weeks after the event though so I still got to run a hill climb I planned on.

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john vanlandingham
It snows in Alberta. Twirly gear types are no better than open on snow and ice.
That means its useless.
Don't waste the effort of R&Ring the gearbox twice..and stripping it twice and dealing with shit function in between.

Ya so I've heard, and I want to have fun on the snow and ice no doubt!!!! final game plan is to get a clutch type lsd for sure! but I'll need to do some racing before I can save up for that. (especially with this engine hickup in budget).

So John, whats your opinion then? don't bother taking apart the diff twice, just the one time for the clutch LSD... so are you saying:

1. get Helical style OEM lsd with the tranny (already installed from the factory) and worst case its no different than the open diff, every other time its doing something for me. Then switch it out next year with the clutch

2. Just the get the Open LSD because Twirly gear types are no better than open on snow and ice.(which I completely agree with!) save the extra $250 and now I'm closer to saving up then install the clutch lsd later?

Both options only have me tear down the tranny once.

or...

3. Open diff, save $250, tear it apart and weld the diff...have alot of fun on some ice....break axles? hope not as bad as some say...but thats the wost part for me in making a choice. Then save up and get the clutch LSD later. but thats 2 tear aparts.

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Pete, the main thing I'm always trying to do is get guys out PRACTICING with their cars sooner rather than later....but avoiding unneccasary "do it twice" stuffs-n-stuff.

Now I haven't done a Honja boite vitesse, maybe the come apart more elegantly than VW or Maz-dog GTX, maybe?

Here's the real pisser, too.. didya know that the twirly geared things that are oriented like Quaiffe can be "shimmed up"?

The Quaiffes can anyway, shimmed up so the work 'kinda with some preload"

But of course nobody does cause the typical Honja boy knows EVERYTHING...

So for 4250 if the ratios are good, OK maybe---but maybe think about shimming...

And as for motors, aren't there some CRV 2,0s or something? Remember we don't have classes "max 1.6" " max 2.0" So why not Lego some 2,0 B thing, that's what my friend at the machine shop did...2.0 is bigger than 1,6 which is a good thing

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John Vanlandingham
Sleezattle, WA, USA

Vive le Prole-le-ralliat

www.rallyrace.net/jvab
CALL +1 206 431-9696
Remember! Pacific Standard Time
is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time.

My advice, keep the B18c stock. Yes, you can build a pretty sweet 2.0L hybrid but it's just a lot more garage work when you can be out on the stages. I would have put a GS-R motor in my car, but I bought my donor with a B16 already installed so I didn't have much choice. B20 2.0L motors have weak cylinder walls. It's basically a b18b block bored out, thus thinner/weaker. You can build a frankenstein motor but it's not going to last unless you build it right and at that point you're talking about getting a GS-R block, bore it to 2.0L and SLEEVE it, swap in a B18b crank, you can put LS rods but might as well get some decent H beam's. You need custom pistons for high compression 2.0L as well. You can start looking into long rod motors while you're at that point getting new rods/pistons to try and get to a better rod:stroke ratio so you can rev it.

The cheater way is to put a block guard up top to keep them together longer, but still not an elegant solution. It works for the 1/4 mile drag guys and sprint race guys from what I hear, but no direct experience myself. You also do not get piston oil squirters, don't have a crank girdle (although you can install one from any VTEC B series motor or aftermarket), you need to drill/tap the oil lines for the VTEC on the block and swap over the VTEC B series head (again they make kits for these too).

George Douganis also had issues with crankcase venting issues as well on his 2.0 frankenmotor, which maybe he can chime in more on. There's a rallycross guy local to me who built a budget 2.0L motor and beat the piss out of it on Rallycrosses and said it loved puking oil or something out the breather if I remember.

When you start getting to that point, you can just buy an Integra Type R motor for $2700 or so from Osaka, get 200 crank HP from a 1.8L from the factory. Hand ported heads, bunch more fancy stuff, rev's just over 8500. Add intake/header/exhaust/tune and you can make just shy of 200 at the wheels. All you need to do is change the oil on that motor and it will last forever.



Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 03/30/2013 02:32PM by BillyElliot.

I think Dans type R motor ended up making almost 185 wheel. Slapped it in and hooked up an AEM.
Here is a shot from about halfway through the tuning.


And since the car is becoming less and less pink...

Suspension came in the mail the other day

Ended up going with some bilstein HD's, They are Paulino's old set that he gave me a good deal on. Revalved, spacer shortened for long travel, schrader valves installed as well. I'm fairly happy with the purchase, and confident in my decision. Should keep it simple for me to learn on. Need to get them on now. and sort out the engine, waiting for one to come in from the local importer that I have talked to (and has a good reputation in the city). Should be here next weekend I'm hoping fingers crossed.

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are those the old ones on the bench? the shaft looks kinda skinny for rally.... just my opinion.

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I be sorry as a muthafucka I did, still sorry I did n' hustled ta peep what tha fuck I holla'd a lil' bit better, or at least try to.

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mke723
are those the old ones on the bench? the shaft looks kinda skinny for rally.... just my opinion.

Its not a strut, not nearly the force put on it. Previously in the thread, soneone said 46mm pistons. Whether the hd's are actually rally worthy or not, well, the only thought that comes to ny mind is cheap used suspension but a $3500+ engine swap..

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HiTempguy

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mke723
are those the old ones on the bench? the shaft looks kinda skinny for rally.... just my opinion.

Its not a strut, not nearly the force put on it. Previously in the thread, soneone said 46mm pistons. Whether the hd's are actually rally worthy or not, well, the only thought that comes to ny mind is cheap used suspension but a $3500+ engine swap..

Those shafts are 14mm with 46mm pistons on a 50mm case. Its the good stuff from Bilstein. As for being rally worthy well, the damping rates were matched to the DMS. But as far as suspension vs swap prices, go out into the world and see that engines and transmissions are inherently more expensive than suspension. What he has for suspension is every bit as good as a set of 6000 DMS shocks.