gr.2 Rally Civic Project

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PeteNaz
Keith, what do you think from any previous experience or talking to competitors at these events?

The Cochrane Roads are fast and solid, seeing tons of regular traffic. (Forestry and oil)
By the end of May the ice shouldn't be a factor so I wouldn't go too soft. Snow/mud is still a possibility, but since the National isn't that weekend it'll be glorious. (Saturday, on the northern stages, was brilliant this year while Friday's stages were snowy and wet.)
You won't need winter soft springs no-matter what but our stages are, generally, smooth and fast so you don't need to set up for super rough stuff either. To get weight transfer at newbie driving aggression, and to be ready for some slippy conditions, you probably want to be a bit on the softer side of a gravel set-up.

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First Rally: 2001
Driver (7), Co-Driver (44)
Drivers (16)
Clerk (10), Official (7), Volunteer (4)
Cars Built (1), Engines Built (0) Cages Built (0)
Last Updated, January 4, 2015

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john vanlandingham
Blame is for idiots. losers.

Thanks for all the help guys! I've settled on what I'm getting for suspension and will be following through this week Bilsteins HD's it is....with a twist though I'll fill you in on the details after I've paid up

One major hickup occured friday night..... I'm fairly positive I spun a rod bearing pretty bad. Car stopped and wouldnt start up, got towed home (missed Trail of the GNU last time I ever go for a test run....) but in all seriousness, better that it happened 5km from home then in rocky mountain house 200KM away



The car started in the morning and I could drive it but it sounded like someone was banging it from the inside with a ball peen!

I've got a couple options that I'm going through here... and I need to act quickly. I've got the engine out already and ready to check out the damage this week from the inside. I'm not sure I want to spend any more money on my wretched D16Y8...but if I can just replace the rod bearing I'll do it for the cheapest option...The Crankshaft might be way to out of spec though so I'm not crossing my fingers!

I'm thinking about grabbing a B18B1, possibly find an Integra, drive it home, pull the engine and axles, trade my rear drums for its disk breaks then have it it!

The other option would be a JDM engine, but then I have to sort the little nick nacks that it wont come with. This will be the most expensive but probably most reliable.

Either way, I want to sort this out by the end of April at the minimum to be ready for Cochrane. Any insight from anyone?

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I'm always posting on Instagram...follow me! PeteNaz Instagram

My Build

You have noise then do this: mike the rod bearing with your handy bearing mike.
Mike the ID of the rod on any journal that the bearing is thinner than spec..
Usually I tell guys LOOK!, here you have to measure accurately..

B16-B18 hybrid B20 are pretty good engines.. I built one for a local guy and I was impressed.. Good god 9500+ on pump gas!

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John Vanlandingham
Sleezattle, WA, USA

Vive le Prole-le-ralliat

www.rallyrace.net/jvab
CALL +1 206 431-9696
Remember! Pacific Standard Time
is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time.

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john vanlandingham
You have noise then do this: mike the rod bearing with your handy bearing mike.
Mike the ID of the rod on any journal that the bearing is thinner than spec..
Usually I tell guys LOOK!, here you have to measure accurately..

B16-B18 hybrid B20 are pretty good engines.. I built one for a local guy and I was impressed.. Good god 9500+ on pump gas!

I knew I forgot something when I went to my dads place yesterday...micrometer...fml

Hopefully she's fine and dandy.....I wouldn't mind something with some more power though..... hmmm

Do any of your guys with honda's have any pro's or con's for running a Vtec platform? I was thinking about the B18B1 because its not Vtec and has more torque than some other B series, other than the B18C but for the price difference being almost double, not sure I wanted to go that route.

Whats more important in my little car, Torque, or horsepower?

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I'm always posting on Instagram...follow me! PeteNaz Instagram

My Build

Torque.
More torque always means more HP since the definition of horsepowers is Torque x time.

And whoile making a baziollion HP 10,000 RPM is OK, in rally we gear it real shoort to what???
To convert all those little horsies via the gear into torquies.
We do that in the gearbox gears and in the final drive..

So you could say Ah ha! more horsies, just gear 'em down and you would have the classic solution..
In theory, in practice peak hp at 10 and peak torque at 7400 means you need a real nonbullshit close ratio gear set and you personally have to be good enough to be MANIC about keeping the foot 100% planted, and stirring the stick perfectly --constantly..

And we just ain't that good at those things---so........................


Torque.

The whole 4wd revolution in rally way back in '81 was driven not by HP but by the torque of the turbo motor....

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John Vanlandingham
Sleezattle, WA, USA

Vive le Prole-le-ralliat

www.rallyrace.net/jvab
CALL +1 206 431-9696
Remember! Pacific Standard Time
is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time.

B20 Frankenstein motors need to be built well to last. The B20 cylinder walls are thin (it's basically a B18b block bored to 2.0L with no modifications) and don't last well. Need even more mods to reilably spin the motor to 8k+, rod bolts, valvesprings/retainers. You can make GREAT power on them but if you really want to go with a reliable 2.0L motor you should bore/sleeve a 1.8L block.

If you're looking for a cheap replacement, Get a B18B or B20 motor and slap a B16 trans on it. Don't worry about putting anything else, keep the motor stock. You won't have to worry about VTEC wiring and what not, you should be able to plug the motor and ECU into your existing harness as long as you get an OBD2 motor. If you want, you can pick up the Brian Crower cams, it's basically a B16 cam profile and you can make 150WHP on a stock B18B motor but I would suggest rod bolts/springs/retainers if you want to spin it to the suggested 7750 RPM.

Look up Osaka JDM motors if you want to get a low mileage motor. They're located in Canada if I recall. You should be able to get a B18B motor and B16 trans cheap.

HP sells cars, Torque wins races.

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Kirk Coughlin
Woodbury, MN and River Falls, WI

Quemadmodum gladius neminem occidit, occidentis telum est.

Kijiji B18b1

This popped up today in My town Kijiji....Am I wrong to think this guy may only semi know what he's doing? I've sent an email to ask a few starter questions about parts he's used and experience.... Any other questions you guys can think of? Or to sketchy and I should walk away before wasting to much time? I'd try to get a better price on it though.

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I'm always posting on Instagram...follow me! PeteNaz Instagram

My Build

I've been looking at some Integras that are going fairly cheap, then I get my rear brake swap with it and a set of tires for my DD which needs it badly. How many KM is to many before its not worth it? 270,000km?

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I'm always posting on Instagram...follow me! PeteNaz Instagram

My Build

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PeteNaz
Kijiji B18b1

This popped up today in My town Kijiji....Am I wrong to think this guy may only semi know what he's doing? I've sent an email to ask a few starter questions about parts he's used and experience.... Any other questions you guys can think of? Or to sketchy and I should walk away before wasting to much time? I'd try to get a better price on it though.

If it's what he says it is, it's not a terrible deal, considering it's including the transmission etc. - but I'm not sure it's a killer deal either.

If he can't show you a receipt or something indicating what pistons _might_ be in there, I'd be real skeptical - but then again I know someone whose $5k "13:1" engine appears to have ended up with stock pistons somehow...

I was going to say "ask if you can pull the head", but forgot that the b-series stuff requires pulling the valvetrain to do that.

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KF7RWG
http://www.utahrallygroup.com

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Aaron Luptak
- but then again I know someone whose $5k "13:1" engine appears to have ended up with stock pistons somehow...
.

that wouldnt be johny O with his 170 hp sr20 would it...lol

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I be sorry as a muthafucka I did, still sorry I did n' hustled ta peep what tha fuck I holla'd a lil' bit better, or at least try to.

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mke723

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Aaron Luptak
- but then again I know someone whose $5k "13:1" engine appears to have ended up with stock pistons somehow...
.

that wouldnt be johny O with his 170 hp qr25 would it...lol

fixed it for you, but yeah...

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KF7RWG
http://www.utahrallygroup.com

what happened to the SR20 he had? his built QR25 makes less HP and tq. than my stock subaru 25i daily driver... HA HA HA HA!!!!

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I be sorry as a muthafucka I did, still sorry I did n' hustled ta peep what tha fuck I holla'd a lil' bit better, or at least try to.

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mke723
what happened to the SR20 he had? his built QR25 makes less HP and tq. than my stock subaru 25i daily driver... HA HA HA HA!!!!

The plan has always been (well, for 3 years, which for Jon might as well be always) a QR25-powered B13, because he "doesn't like" the SR20 or something

At this point, calling it a "built" engine seems a stretch, since it really just has a cam in it. But, since he bought the thing years ago, the engine builder has disappeared, so he's pretty much SOL at this point.

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KF7RWG
http://www.utahrallygroup.com

Quote
PeteNaz
Kijiji B18b1

This popped up today in My town Kijiji....Am I wrong to think this guy may only semi know what he's doing? I've sent an email to ask a few starter questions about parts he's used and experience.... Any other questions you guys can think of? Or to sketchy and I should walk away before wasting to much time? I'd try to get a better price on it though.

Plenty of red flags to say NO NO NO. I can pretty much tell you that thing is a B18b more, MAYBE B16 piston swap, crower stage 2 cams and an eBay header THAT'S IT. Typical street pimper engine build skipping corners.

Here's the price list:
Motor: 850 (from online sites, you could get them for 300-400 locally)
Cams: 450
Springs/Retainers: 200
Pistons: 100
Motor Mounts: 250
eBay Header: 50

That's 1900 right there. I'd get ARP head studs and rod bolts for another 200 and you're still cheaper. Doesn't have tranny code? If it's a hydro conversion, it's an older B series which have weak shift mechanisms inside them. Those trans are a couple hundred bucks if that from a local.

I'm telling you, just get a stock B18 motor, put a stock B16 trans and go racing. Don't try and build some hot motor. Just swap in a bone stock ITR motor and NEVER OPEN UP THE DAMN THING. Everytime I've heard/seen a Honda motor go bad, it was after they took apart the excelent Honda engineered parts and started putting in aftermarket crap, revving them to the moon, etc.

Or just get this:
http://osakajdmmotors.ca/jdm-engines/jdm-honda-engine-b18c-gsr-odb2-1996-p-10.html?zenid=psuhtqh134pm9ecpjs5ctg3fl5

$2500, will make the same power, includes trans/ecu/axles/alternator/engine harness etc all you need. You'll just need to splice in the two VTEC wires you need (oil pressure and VTEC solenoid) into your chassis harness and you're good to go.

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I have a moded normally aspirated B18B1 with at least 12 to 1, could be 11.5! Don't know, crazy new pistons, rings, valves, header, timing belt, has hydro conversion, new motor mounts, pulled from a 95 Integra with 80,000k comes with intake, tranny, new center force dual clutch, no ECU, Engine was fine when pulled.

Would need a professional break-in for sure! Not for any one! Was a possibly Austin mini swap, but change of plans!

If the guy has no clue what the compression ratio is, I wouldn't even figure I would trust the rest. If the thing was pulled from an Integra, I would assume it was running. But somehow it needs a break in? It's just too fishy. The guy hasn't run it at all, otherwise it would come with an ECU. This guy built this and realized he could get the same power with a bone stock B18C motor for half the price.

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Cams are stage 2 crower n/a and dual valve springs to match the motors balanced to 10,000 rpm, head studs are new stock, rods are stock and crank stock. As far as the Ecu I wouldn't even try a stock one, you would have to get a few codes being 11.5/12 to but it might run alright just wouldn't want it to do some weird stuff.

Also, if you're building a motor and pulling the head might as well put ARP stuff on the head studs and rod bolts. Sure, crank is balanced to 10k still would need a block girdle to rev it to 8k+.



Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 03/27/2013 11:17AM by BillyElliot.