What did you do on the rally car today?

I am a big fan of sciroccos (had 3)and was wondering if you have helmet/head clearence issues?

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rally gods would turn in their graves if they ever knew Lada's were now part of EU rallying!!!

With the old seat... yes. I didn't even try the helmet on when I bought the car. With the new Sparco mounted, I had several inches of headroom to work with... haven't put on the helmet though. Seat came back out so I could paint and do other stuff.

I'm tall, but it's more leg than upper body.

I installed a new tie-rod on the passenger side. I also straightened one of the link in the rear suspension on the Focus. Needs an alignment and few other cosmetic things and it will be ready for Tall Pines.

Dad finished pulling the old rotten brake lines last night (rear flex lines tucked up in the rear axle... PITA!). He also fashioned a protector for the fuel filler pipe that sits exposed in the rear wheelwell using some of the urethane sheeting I'd bought months ago.

I figured out where to mount the battery box, and got the holes for the J hooks drilled through the floor. Picking up the sealed AGM battery next week.

Ran one more brake line... from the rear 'T' to the bracket where it connects to one rear brake line. Dad was in my way so I held off doing the other one.

Swapped front hub with a spare with a good wheelbearing, put the spare passenger axle on, and reassembled the front coilover with a good strut mount I found. Just need to tighten down the axle nut and inner CV bolts.

Also, one of the regional scrutineers stopped by to have a look since the logbook has been lost for the car. He said everything looks fine and will have it ready for me at Pines. No comments on the weld-job for the roof bar... must mean I have some decent looking welds.

Finish the brakes and start plumbing the fuel system tonight. Missing some fittings that are on backorder.

Puttered in the garage and got most all of the tabs/brackets welded onto the Toyota 8" rear axle for the Opel build. Still need to fab an attach point for the pahhard rod. and figure the sway bar braketry, but this is progressing to about 80% complete now. The lower tabs will be trimmed after we drill the holes for the lower links; the boxes on the rear side are for the coilever shock lower ends. The tabs are all spaces a bit wide for adjustments; will get everything alingend precisely and make spaces out of heavy tubing to locate the connections alon the axle laterally. The steel palte for these tabs/brackets is 3/16".

Regards, Mark B.

Awesome Mark! We finally have pics of your new Opel.

BTW, I'm moving my own Opel to the new workshop in about 1 hour. Yeehaw!

Bob

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Opel is a 4-letter word...
http://www.flickr.com/photos/10498579@N07/sets/

Opel Ascona is finally moved into my new shop! It's sitting amongst 3 other Opels, therefore it is a happy Opel once again.

Bob

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Opel is a 4-letter word...
http://www.flickr.com/photos/10498579@N07/sets/

10 days to Pines.

The head went back on last night, is torqued down, exhaust attached, coolant hoses on, majority of the wiring hooked back up. Need to grab my 90A alternator off my vw Fox to replace the crappy 55A this one had. Still needs intake bits hooked up and injectors put it. I want to leave them out until I've finished the fuel system and can test their flow pattern. (Awaiting 90° bulkhead fittings that are on backorder till today). Also needs a new cable made up from the alternator to the starter, where the primary cable from the battery connects.

New windshield is almost in... this gasket is a PITA to get on... dad is working on it.

More parts arrived yesterday; I got the new reverse light switch installed.

Tonight:
-modify skidplate mounts to use REAL bolts... not these countersunk 1/4" screws with free-spinning nuts on the back.
-mock up new skidplate from alum plate to be dropped off at the metal shop tomorrow for them to bend a new one.
-front brakes reassemble


Still to do...
-install instrument cluster
-finish mounts for dash panel, begin dash panel (mounting kill switch and pre-drill for switches/breakers)
-Finish battery cables (Grounds and battery +ve to circuit breaker).
-install fuel lines + fuel pump
-reinstall drivers seat and belts
-reinstall adjustable prop valve
-bleed brakes
-front skidplate
-underbody protection/fuel tank protection
-mount passenger seat and belts
-extinguishers/first aid kit/triangles/jack

....

...stared at it. Then went back inside.

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~A.M.S.

"Some people are afraid of heights, not me. I'm afraid of widths"

^^ HAHA Nice I do that some times with my rally car.

I actually did some work in the garage last night. I have the engine bay a final inspection including fluid levels. I replace one of the 3 bolts on the water pump pulley. Don't know how I lost it but it wasn't there at BRS.

I also torqued the skid plate bolts and put a dab of lock-tite on them to keep them from backing out like they have done at the last 2 rallies.

Going to alignment rack tomorrow.

I also purchased a set of Nokian Hakka Rsi's. Now watch the roads will be snow free at tall pines.

Hacked a rusty fender off the Mini with my new set of spot weld cutters and $12 pnematic cut-off saw (All praise the gods of Princess Auto).

Next up is getting the blanks for my lower ball-joint clevices water jetted.

Anyone know how large a square section I should leave for my machinist to cut down to 1/2" UNF?

Cheers, Ted

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Pure mathematics is the enemy of every truly creative man -- Sir Alec

GF called wednesday afternoon... car won't start, ignition stuck on even with the key removed. I assumed ignition switch. Left work at 5, drove 30min home and pulled the switch out of the parts car. Drove 90 minutes to Stoufville where it had been towed to the stealership. 10 minutes later had old switch in my hands... and discovered the real problem... the little 'tab' from the keyed switch had broken off at the end (envision breaking the tip off a flathead screwdriver). Electrical switch works fine.

Final solution (cause the gf is short on money right now)... key in the ignition switch to unlock the wheel, and a screwdriver the turn on the electrical switch and start/stop the car.

Very rally ghetto. Works for a few weeks until we can fix it here at home.

At the same time... killed another bird since I was "close by"... about 11pm I drove the rest of the way to CanJam in Richmond Hill, and picked up my other seat from my friend's car. Yes, they were still there... and were there when I left at 12:30. Prepping his new car, prepping the course cars for Pines... they haven't even started on Donnelly's car!

Opels multiply if you leave them alone for too long...

The 'Turd' Ascona, rally car-to-be:



Turbo street Manta, NASA road racing Manta, and turbo Opel GT convertible project all in the same new shop. At least they all have friends now:

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Opel is a 4-letter word...
http://www.flickr.com/photos/10498579@N07/sets/

Aaaah, veeery nice Bob! Love the original baby blue color on the Ascona. Hey, any clue where we can get some of the Manta fender flares??

Regards,
Mark B.

starion887 Wrote:
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> Aaaah, veeery nice Bob! Love the original baby
> blue color on the Ascona. Hey, any clue where we
> can get some of the Manta fender flares??
>
> Regards,
> Mark B.


Yup, call Gil at Opel GT Source, he still has the molds for both the Ascona and Manta (rears are the same, fronts are different). Alternatively, I think John Mills in Ohio (former SCCA Manta racer) has a few sets left over he just tried to sell...and possibly molds too.

I will be pulling molds off my Manta racecar front flares/fenders and making them in one piece. Lighter and easier to deal with than a steel fender/glass flare combo.

Bob

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Opel is a 4-letter word...
http://www.flickr.com/photos/10498579@N07/sets/