What did you do on the rally car today?

Thanks for that link Grant. :-)

John

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http://www.lastditchracing.com
http://www.triplecaution.us

Engine is in the car. Drivetrain isn't all there yet, but we got to where we should have been able to fire it up for the first time in close to three years. Misterbitchy wouldn't lite off and five hours of troubleshooting and smoking went on while we narrowed it down to the remanufactured ECU (it's got a sticker on it) or the remainder of the bad gas in the tank. We suspect ECU due to no signal to the injectors at cranking while the pump has been confirmed to work.

Damn car.

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Brian Driggs | KG7KCA | PHX, AZ | 89 Pajero
alterius non sit qui suus esse potest

Doesn't moose got at least two spare ECUs?

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Grant Hughes

NoCoast Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Doesn't moose got at least two spare ECUs?

Before I go asking for an ECU from Moose, I want to be sure I need one. Fortunately, I'm kinda friends with the guy who started DigitalTuning. He's going to take a look at the ECU today and let me know how is checks out. If it's janked, he should be able to fix it.

I did some research last night on GalantVR4.org and learned that there's a chance the doo-dad inside the cam sensor (tied to timing) might be spun around 180*. I never touched the cams on this one - it's all original valve cover to oil pan - but there's a chance that thing came off. I'm checking it before I leave this morning.

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Brian Driggs | KG7KCA | PHX, AZ | 89 Pajero
alterius non sit qui suus esse potest

You should still get some signal at injectors though.

Just go borrow one from Moose before you spend money trying to figure it out.

When we were in 2 am crunch mode on Aaron's DSM we were having a similar problem except we could get it to fire, just ran horrible. Called Ron Nelson who drove 30 miles in the middle of the night to bring us one of his spares and a spare MAF. Problem ended up being Aaron's welds on the intercooler tubing. We tried everything though. Now charge air tests are one of the first things we do if the car is running odd. Point being, before you pay someone or buy another, go borrow one from someone who probably has a spare or three.

---

Grant Hughes

NoCoast Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> You should still get some signal at injectors
> though.

True, Grant, but we were going McGuyver in the dark, using an incandesent bulb cut from the GS-T in the garage. Given the nature of injector pulsewidth, there's no way it could have lit a turn signal bulb. Had we tried with an LED, we might have seen better results.

ECU has checked out to be reasonably sound. It's been repaired, although not by a professional, and pretty much ruled out at this time.

I have done some research and have the following suspects:
-CAS being 180* out (an internal alignment not found on my NT DSM and therefore not checked)
-Plug wires not being connected right. (Followed guide on coil, but not sure if it's right at this point)
-Clogged fuel filter
-Colonel Mustard in the library with the candlestick.

I'll keep you guys posted. I'd love to have a video up on YouTube by the weekend.

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Brian Driggs | KG7KCA | PHX, AZ | 89 Pajero
alterius non sit qui suus esse potest

Duuuuude !

You documented it ???

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Cheers
M.Samli
Phoenix AZ
Gaylant VR4
EVO III GSR (Stolen)


Rallies are no place for traitors

sagsert Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Duuuuude !
>
> You documented it ???
>

Not sure if that's meant for me or not. Yes, I always make it a point to share my technical difficulties. It's how I learned everything I know. I ended up with the revised suspects after a much more detailed post I made on GalantVR4.org. Within ten minutes, I had the site admin suggest the CAS being 180* out. It's my prime suspect/million dollar baby at this point.

Picked up some more odds and ends to get her running by the weekend. I've got design work to do tonight to pay for the rest, but I hope to be driving her over to your place next weekend to return your flaring tools.

(PS - Know anyone who can hook up a 90 day temp tag?)

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Brian Driggs | KG7KCA | PHX, AZ | 89 Pajero
alterius non sit qui suus esse potest

DR1665 Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> sagsert Wrote:
> --------------------------------------------------
> -----
> > Duuuuude !
> >
> > You documented it ???
> >
>
> Not sure if that's meant for me or not. Yes, I
> always make it a point to share my technical
> difficulties. It's how I learned everything I
> know. I ended up with the revised suspects after
> a much more detailed post I made on GalantVR4.org.
> Within ten minutes, I had the site admin suggest
> the CAS being 180* out. It's my prime
> suspect/million dollar baby at this point.
>
> Picked up some more odds and ends to get her
> running by the weekend. I've got design work to
> do tonight to pay for the rest, but I hope to be
> driving her over to your place next weekend to
> return your flaring tools.
>
> (PS - Know anyone who can hook up a 90 day temp
> tag?)
>
>
>
>
> Brian DR1665 | Phoenix, AZ
> 91 GVR4

Brian, Grasshopper,
I speak several languages and I work on cars long time go boom boom make GI very happy, but I no spikka da fucking acronyms.

You wanna talk silly Misterbitchy unique lingo then you're not going to be able to get much help from the non-Misterbitchy folks.

Eschew Obfuscation.

In other words what da fawk is CAS?
Completely Absent Spark?
Cantanerous Asinine Stuff
Crappy Asian Shit?

Come on every MFG calls shit by studid abreviations, you should call things by what they are, OK.

(Psssst Mooosie, smack him upside the head for me would ya? Thanks)

---

John Vanlandingham
Sleezattle, WA, USA

Vive le Prole-le-ralliat

www.rallyrace.net/jvab
CALL +1 206 431-9696
Remember! Pacific Standard Time
is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time.

Cam Angle Sensor I believe.

Got one of the spring seats off. Took some acetylene and a big fucking pipe wrench and three guys. I honestly thought we were going to break the lower eyelet off. May need to get another spring seat from you John. Some of the threads are knackered. Got a bit more work with a file and flat head before it comes to that. The aluminum degradation shit made some serious mess inside the tall body. Gotta take the other one of the car and get it off next and clean the threads up. Had a variety of ideas to protect it, including a o-ring, with a bunch of silicone, then race tape over all the threads and silicone to keep dirt, moisture, and road salt out.

Also spent alot of today talking with a friend in Phoenix about a special project we are working on.

---

Grant Hughes

Indeed CAS is Cam Angle Sensor, not Crappy Asian Shit, well it may be considered that when that's the shit that's driving you nutts.

I seriously doubt that's the culprit though. Misterbichy ECU doesn't read CAS to manipulate injection as far as I remember.

---

Cheers
M.Samli
Phoenix AZ
Gaylant VR4
EVO III GSR (Stolen)


Rallies are no place for traitors

sagsert Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Indeed CAS is Cam Angle Sensor, not Crappy Asian
> Shit, well it may be considered that when that's
> the shit that's driving you nutts.
>
> I seriously doubt that's the culprit though.
> Misterbichy ECU doesn't read CAS to manipulate
> injection as far as I remember.

Illegitimus non carborundum. Eschew obfuscation indeed.

While the ECU might not use CAS for fuel delivery, Moose, I'm pretty sure it's tied to ignition timing. Just because we see sparky sparky when the plug is out doesn't mean it go sparky sparky when it should! Then again, it's wasted spark, but maybe the wasted spark comes during exhaust stroke? Too much thinking for me at the moment.

All I know is, I've had cams 180* out before and you get the same symptoms with zero compression from all the valves being open at the same time. Since we have the symptoms, but still have the compression, it leads me to believe the cam is installed right (better be, it's been that way for over 200k miles), but the sensor isn't and the ECU might be firing the coil pack out of order. I guess I might swap the plug wires even-to-odd and test it, but it's just as easy to yank the CAS and flip the propeller inside.

So last night I scored some more belts, a new fuel filter, and a can of Seafoam for the gas tank to run through the first tank of fresh gas. Which reminds me, Moose! You have a spare gas can lying about I could borrow a couple days to splash some fresh go-juice into this biatch?

She drives this weekend...

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Brian Driggs | KG7KCA | PHX, AZ | 89 Pajero
alterius non sit qui suus esse potest



Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 12/05/2006 10:45AM by DR1665.

Well I suppose it's probably easy to flip the sensor. But if that's not it what are you going to do?

The plug wires could be wrong on coilpack. I'm really good at installing plug wires wrong on coil pack. Figure out where cylinder one plugs in then you know what the firing order should be. Double check your timing, though it'd likely fire with a tooth off. It's pretty easy to get and extra tooth up top between the two cam sprockets on these. Check your MAF connections. Check to see if you are getting fuel.

Oh, and check for your check engine light and engine codes. And good luck. We did six engine swaps in one 3 month period last year on one of those stupid cars. Kept being stupid little shit, like Steve not cleaning out the oil passages on a junkyard crank and no oil to inner rod bearings, to getting ripped off on a ebay engine with a trashed head and block from two broken valves being banged around inside cylinder one for who knows how long.

Corrosion. That was what had caused the spring seat to freeze. Massive amounts of corrosion on the inside, non-threaded part of the coilover body.

---

Grant Hughes

> Corrosion. That was what had caused the spring
> seat to freeze. Massive amounts of corrosion on
> the inside, non-threaded part of the coilover
> body.


I ran into this same problem with a set of coils once, because they were inverted I just applied liberal amounts of heat, LET them cool, then heat and cool a couple more times before trying to budge them... otherwise you rip the threads off the aluminum part, leaving them piled up on the steel part. Sounds like what you got?

Are these JVL units (sorry I haven't been following too closely).

John, any reason the threads are so fine, and tight (perfect for machine parts!). The rears have a very course 'loose' thread that seems much more applicable to this harsh environment no?


-Martin.

MRWmotorsports Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> > Corrosion. That was what had caused the
> spring
> > seat to freeze. Massive amounts of corrosion
> on
> > the inside, non-threaded part of the
> coilover
> > body.
>
>
> I ran into this same problem with a set of coils
> once, because they were inverted I just applied
> liberal amounts of heat, LET them cool, then heat
> and cool a couple more times before trying to
> budge them... otherwise you rip the threads off
> the aluminum part, leaving them piled up on the
> steel part. Sounds like what you got?
>
> Are these JVL units (sorry I haven't been
> following too closely).
>
> John, any reason the threads are so fine, and
> tight (perfect for machine parts!). The rears
> have a very course 'loose' thread that seems much
> more applicable to this harsh environment no?
>
>
> -Martin.
>
>


Yeah they were done that way cause i thought it best to stick with the thread size that Bilstein itself uses on their stuff and cause many of us already have strut tubes using this size so thought let's continue.

And yeah salt and dirt left down the sleeve can lead to siezed adjusters, but I know I've said to everybody: When your happy with the spring pre load, wrapsome duct tape around the top of the adjuster to keep dirt and salt out"

I will not be using that thread form and pitch on my 50mm stuff.
Coarser and shaped different. But I'm not doing interchange with anything.

---

John Vanlandingham
Sleezattle, WA, USA

Vive le Prole-le-ralliat

www.rallyrace.net/jvab
CALL +1 206 431-9696
Remember! Pacific Standard Time
is 3 hours behind Eastern Standard Time.